I have heard that IC ctd rads are better than non-IC ones. Does anyone know how hard it is to change from one to the other?
Size, fan-shroud, nearness to fan, hoses?

I have not found a donor vehicle and would like as much info as possible before I start.

Maybe alcohol is a better route?


My non IC truck has experienced some high temperatures while pulling my 5000 pound fifth wheel. The clutch fan works well, you can hear and feel it when it kicks in and out. The rad is not blocked either outside or inside.

Outside air temps were in the mid 90's and there was a stiff crosswind. The indicated temp ran at the top of the "normal" band on the factory guage. Down shifting to 4th gear was necessary to keep the temp from rising even higher.

Pyro readings were a little high, about 1000 degrees post turbo. My AC was set high and dumping more heat into the mix.

My rad could use some work but is cooling as good as new. I have always noticed that when the truck is getting hot, there is no more cyclic effect in rad temps. When pulling in more moderate temperatures, temps vary up and down within the normal range.

I just added a shut off on the heater hose to eliminate the warm water that does seep through the oem vacuum shut off. blah blah blah............ I better shut up now and wait for a reply.

Thanks

 

The IC trucks have a thrid row of tubes and is a thicker version of yours. As far as I knwo you can just swap on in. Id grab brackets up top a shroud and fas w/ clutch assy as the non-IC truck fan depth might be a tad different, but I dont think so.

The EGTs wernt bad at 1000, you could sneak another 100 in there before you need to cool it a bit.

You can get new ones for about 250.00, so that a good route also.

 

mopar2ya, he said 1000 post, that's already pretty toasty. isn't it +300 for post? something like that.

 

Sounds good.... on the egt's front I think a 16 cm housing might bring them down a little and improve city driving a bit. That and a gov spring.....

 

Ive always went by 125 if its right behind the turbo. Never had a problem when I ran it there. Easy way to check is get a second probe and install before and after...

Im not a diesel guru, but a small housing doesnt flow as much as a larger housing will, wouldnt that trap the heat raising temps? It spools better shure, but I had a 18.5 and stuck on a 16 and lost 2 psi which was supposed to be the opposite, but the 2nd-3rd upshift was better especially when towing..

 

I think that getting more air at lower rpm's with a 16 might help while hauling but I know it will help some around town. I have heard that automatics tend to spool up a little better than the standards... in city traffic. At the moment I am looking for the cross-flo rad and a gov. spring. The next bit of cash will either go for a housing or water/meth injection.


Also I like the idea of using a second probe on the pyro.. I paid 35 bucks for the complete setup at a big rig wrecker and will see if they have another thermocouple for cheap. My boost guage was a 10 buck cheapie but it also works just fine. I have stopped slamming the needle (25 pounds) because I turned down my fuel some. (It was getting a little dark back there sometimes)