Time to upgrade my brakes.


anyone ever use these guys ???

http://brakeperformance.com/brake-ro...s.php?did=9521


Thanks !

 

You driving a truck or a race car?

Tradeoff for small increase in cooling is increased wear.

 

I`m using their rotors but the slotted/dimpled ones. Very happy with them. As far as increasing wear, I have not seen any increase AND, just last week i ahd to repl the r/f caliper as the piston had siezed. Took it all apart to repl the caliper and the pads still had about 3/4 or better material left. Those pads had about 10-12k miles on them so I`m going say not to worry about increased wear, I will say this, so far in all those miles no warping/vibrations etc and when I pulled the wheels they werent even rusted, I guess that zinc coat or whatever it is they put on the rotors works. I also put a set of their rotors on my wifes Chevy Equinox and no vibrations...yet(if my wife cannot warp them it is saying a LOT,lol). I`d buy them again in a heartbeat.

 

$165 for a set (2) of slotted, cross drilled rotors?
How is that possible. They have to be some cheap chinese steel.
A single stainless steel rotor for one of my motorcycles is $300

 

I put the dimpled cross drilled slotted ones on my 91 some time back. Haven't had a rotor problem sense. I like them enough i'm going to put a set on my other truck. As far as wear? Not seeing it and have maybe 30K on them.

 

For the sale price, maybe I should just buy a set for when I do my brakes later this year, or early next.
I've got one rotor with a little wobble in it.

 

I've been running on the same set of front pads and OEM rotors since about January 2008. Half of the pads still exist.

 

Thanks Guys !


I'm glad someone here used them.


Personally, I could care less about "wear". If my truck stops better, and I don't get as much brake fade that I'm currently having under panic stops, then if I got only 10K out of a set of pads, I'm cool with that.

The local parts stores (NAPA) has them from $42 to $55 each. That makes them about $110 a pair plus tax....

So for an extra $50 ????? I'll try them out.

From working as a mechanic for about a dozen years, some time back when the Barney and Fred had their single wheeled roller vehicles, I've been kind of a nut when it comes to brake pads.

I never let the pads go past 1/2 worn, as then what happens is that the heat generated from "braking" transfers through the thinner pad, into the caliper much quicker. So, my Yota has the same rotors on it since new, and I just change out the pads whenever 1/2 gone. No squeak, no pulsating, no brake fade....no bad calipers.

My dodge has terrible brake fade under heavy braking at higher speeds. Brakes work fantastic when you're under 30MPH, but over 60, it really sucks to stop the truck.....

I bought a 3 sets of Brembo brake pads from Rockauto when they were on clearance. Looking forwards to using them..... up


Thanks ... !


I just have to confirm the correct rotors as there are 2 different castings for my truck...

#99756 that has a 1.19 nominal thick rotor with a 2.78" height from back to top of the hat

and

# 100353 that has a 1.54 nominal thickness, with a 3.08" height


99% sure it's tthe thicker rotor, but I don't want to order them till I get the wheels off this weekend.



Thanks again !

 

BTW,

It's amazing what you will find when you start looking....


http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...neer-test.html


Drilled rotors may run cooler, but are prone to cracking due to their mass being compromised... albeit, under track conditions.


Oh, well, back to the drawing board .... and try to figure this out.

 

The cross drilling is just more cooling I'd think and dimpling is just deburing the hole. The rotors on my 91 would never go more than a month without warping. Sometimes they wouldn't last 2 weeks. Put these on and haven't had a problem sense. My 92 hasn't had a problem with the OEM yet, but then I haven't driven it much due to other problems like master cylinders and the transmission.

 

The drilling/slotting/dimpling is for expelling gasses. Hard braking releases boiling gasses between the rotor and pad. This makes the pad float across the rotor. The modification just allows a path for these gasses to escape, inceasing brake effectiveness.

 

After reading about a dozen different threads, and hearing opinions from a-z, I'm still going to buy them, and test them out.


Since the crux of the argument is whether or not the vehicle is being used for "racing", I think I should be ok using them strictly on the street, and not worry about cracking them as they warned about.

I just want to stop a little sooner as to not muff up my beautiful 20 year old bumper on some brand new Mercedes S-class.

 

Mine is used for heavy hauling and towing all the time. Prone to cracking? The torture that kept destroying the OEM ones has not effected these.

 

Among the tuners of the VW and Honda worlds, drilled rotors will never last as long as a set of slotted. If the drilled holes were not too close, theory says they won't crack.

These are also run on hot street cars.

 

Cross drilled/dimpled and slotted rotors have aboout 9% less clamping area than smooth ones. I tried them along with Carbon kevlar pads. I did the proper break in procedure and was still driving through intersections. Threw them out and returned to NAPA premium rotors and Mopar stock pads. Nice. Braking was restored to the same mediocre level,but they did stop. This was on my '99. The thing that really worked was a Pacbrake.

On the '07,Im thinking EBC slotted,cryo's with their Greenstuff pads.