Crankwalk?
Crankwalk?
Well I think I found the root cause of my belt riding off the AC pulley. I got to looking and the AC pulley and the tensioner lined up perfect, the Crank pulley, which is brand new, was too far forward. So with my pry bar I was trying to see what if anything had play and I was able to push the crank back about 1/4". I don't think this is normal.
So do I need new main bearings? Or is there a thrust bearing that I need to replace?
Thanks, Aaron
So do I need new main bearings? Or is there a thrust bearing that I need to replace?
Thanks, Aaron
Its brand new from cummins for a 92 model year, well for the engine serial number that came in a 92. I believe it is a 2 piece but i'm 100% sure. What would it look like?
Aaron
Aaron
Thrust bearing is shot.
Time to drop the pan for a look-see. If you caught it early enough you can just roll in new bearings. If the crank is gouged up it's gonna get expensive. Maybe Monty will chime in here, he had to replace his a while back.
Time to drop the pan for a look-see. If you caught it early enough you can just roll in new bearings. If the crank is gouged up it's gonna get expensive. Maybe Monty will chime in here, he had to replace his a while back.
I called cummins and thats what they said. I hope its not too bad. Are the thrust bearings part of the main bearings or is it a separate bearing?
edit: except the guy at cummins said it happened because my clutch was out of adjustment. I didn't know there was any adjustment on a hydraulic clutch setup.
edit: except the guy at cummins said it happened because my clutch was out of adjustment. I didn't know there was any adjustment on a hydraulic clutch setup.
It's part of one of the mains.
They wear out over time. The worst thing you can do is sit with your foot on the clutch at a light. There's nothing the Dodge clutch could have done to hurt it.
They wear out over time. The worst thing you can do is sit with your foot on the clutch at a light. There's nothing the Dodge clutch could have done to hurt it.
I never sit at a light or anytime with the clutch in. I might put it in as I see the light changing, but I never sit an entire cycle with it in. Now as far as the PO for the 250k that he put on I can't say.
What about dry starting with the clutch in? I know on some other engines this is a big problem. But with 260k I guess somethings are just going to wear out!!
What about dry starting with the clutch in? I know on some other engines this is a big problem. But with 260k I guess somethings are just going to wear out!!
Trending Topics
When you are pushing down on the clutch pedal, the throwout bearing is compressing the clutch cover springs. Those springs are trying to push the crank out the front of the engine. The thrust bearing is all that's holding those springs, and at hot idle oil pressure is at its lowest.
The hardest part of the job is getting the oil pan off and out of the way. You can drop the oil pan and wiggle your hand in to drop the pickup tube but the oil pan will be stuck between the cross member and bellhousing. However, I see you have a 4wd so it may be easier. On mine, I had to pull the transmission and lift the engine up about a foot just in order to clear the cross member with the oil pan. When you get in there, more than likely, the clutch side thrust bearing will be in the oil pan. I got lucky and had no wear on the journals or block from the end play. Go ahead and run new rod and main bearings in. I believe the main and rod set along with an oil pan gsk and pickup tube gsk ran around 150 bucks from Cummins.
Well I was thinking I may remove the tranny anyways to install a rear main and a new clutch. But if I can I would rather do one thing at a time.
I didn't even think about getting a oil pan gsk, or the pickup tube gsk. Thanks.
I priced main bearing set at $80 and rod bearings are ~$7 a piece from cummins. The rod bearings are more expensive from NAPA but the main bearing set is less. Would you recomend only getting the cummins bearings or do you think the NAPA bearings are the same ones?
I didn't even think about getting a oil pan gsk, or the pickup tube gsk. Thanks.
I priced main bearing set at $80 and rod bearings are ~$7 a piece from cummins. The rod bearings are more expensive from NAPA but the main bearing set is less. Would you recomend only getting the cummins bearings or do you think the NAPA bearings are the same ones?
Well, either way you will be okay. I believe Napas are Clevite. However, Ive always been one to go back with OEM engine parts. One thing to remember is that Cummins supercedes parts when it finds a problem or a better solution. Going with aftermarket, you take a chance of getting the original oem spec part. I do know that Cummins has updated the thrust bearing, so I would definately get the Cummins main set.
I think I will definately get the cummins parts, your right about internal engine stuff. I just didn't want to pay double at cummins for the same part you can get at autozone, like the belt tensioner.




Ahhh the ONE upside of a slushbox (and I DO mean SLUSH