couple of tranny swap questions
#1
couple of tranny swap questions
found a good deal on a 47re from a v10. im under the impression that it will work just need to change a few things. does that sound right?
allso will any year 47re work with our truck ie 2003, 98
lastly the wiring of the tranny, essentially that is a computer controlled tranny but what exactly does the computer control? i have been trying to find a 47rh but the re seems more available.
allso will any year 47re work with our truck ie 2003, 98
lastly the wiring of the tranny, essentially that is a computer controlled tranny but what exactly does the computer control? i have been trying to find a 47rh but the re seems more available.
#2
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found a good deal on a 47re from a v10. im under the impression that it will work just need to change a few things. does that sound right?
allso will any year 47re work with our truck ie 2003, 98
lastly the wiring of the tranny, essentially that is a computer controlled tranny but what exactly does the computer control? i have been trying to find a 47rh but the re seems more available.
allso will any year 47re work with our truck ie 2003, 98
lastly the wiring of the tranny, essentially that is a computer controlled tranny but what exactly does the computer control? i have been trying to find a 47rh but the re seems more available.
The computer controls nearly everything on the RE -
won't work on ours without a LOT of work $$$$$
#3
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like unixcoboy said the RE is more work the then the RH would be.
#5
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if i remember correctly you can used the tail section of the 727 to get rid of the electronic components. There is a member on here that did this (JD730) something), look up his post and read what he did.
like unixcoboy said the RE is more work the then the RH would be.
like unixcoboy said the RE is more work the then the RH would be.
What I did is use the RE front case, parts and all. I took the RE overdrive and the 518 overdrive and used the clutch and gears out of the RE and put the output shaft from the 518 and put it all back together in the 518 tail housing.
When the front case is apart, the overdrive piston retainer has to be changed, the RE one does not have the fluid ports in it for the hydraulic governor. I used an aftermarket one. You'll also need a RH valve body.
Work wise its not much more if you can do your own trans work or if you have a good buddy that does it. The RE parts are much better than the A518 internals, front panet carrier is a 5 pinion steel compared to a 4 pinion aluminum, the rear band is a wider double wrap design.
Don't forget to find yourself the engine adapter plate.
#6
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Actually if you wanted to run one with a manual valve body it wouldn't be that much work. Guys used to run them because no one made a billet output for the 47RH. Someone does now, so that is no longer a valid reason.
#7
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#8
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i have also been seriously debating doing a 47rh swap. the thing is i dont want to pay 1000 for a good TC when i can pay 650 for my 727. i have to rebuild the 47rh but then i have to find a adapter plate, starter, shorten my driveline, make new trans mounts and rig up the wiring. i dont want to manualy control the lock up and OD. if im going to do that then ill just swap a stick in
#10
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Well, it looks like like the one that you probably have now exept it is about 2" thick and the starter is up closer to the frame rail... Which has to be bent a little.. to make room for it...
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i have also been seriously debating doing a 47rh swap. the thing is i dont want to pay 1000 for a good TC when i can pay 650 for my 727. i have to rebuild the 47rh but then i have to find a adapter plate, starter, shorten my driveline, make new trans mounts and rig up the wiring. i dont want to manualy control the lock up and OD. if im going to do that then ill just swap a stick in
I found mine at a place in Pa. - They have ALL KINDS of parts !!!
What's with the 'shorten the driveline' ? I keep hearing this, but I don't know why...Maybe it's because I've got a CC...
There was about 1 1/2" - 2" of my spline sticking out of the driveshaft rtight behind my carrier bearing....Even though I had to move the rear mount back the rest of the drivetrain lined up perfectly...The major problem I had was the bolts holding the rear trans mount came in from the TOP of the frame. Only choice was to loosen the body mounting bolts and lift the rear of the cab - way too much work - or torch a channel in the frame so the bolts would slide back...2nd choice was LOTS easier - just watch the cutting flame and don't go into the body
And the frame didn't have to be notched or anything - the starter bolted right in...
JD730 - - -
IF I had known that I'd have picked up an RE. They're supposed to be stronger than the RH anyway...
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