Hey everyone It's time for a new clutch in my ol 93 I would like to upgrade to a more HD clutch but not sure if I want to go as xtreme to a dual disc! What's some of your guys input this subject. Thanks

 

You need to be more specific for what you have and what you are using it for.

 

[QUOTE=BILTIT;3275776]You need to be more specific for what you have and what you are using it for.[/QUOTE
Well basically I'm wanting peoples input on what they upgraded there clutch to and been happy with. The truck will aventually have 100hp injectors soon along with a 60-64 mm turbo and possibly a 14mm pump head or P7100 conversion. But befor I start building power I want start with a clutch that will hold. Another way of putting it what's best clutch that will hold the most power as a single disc? (keeping the drivablity and towability reliable).or do I just need to jump to a dual disc. Hope this was more helpful

 

How much weight and how often do you tow?

That's the deal breaker, lots of power and towing heavy with a single don't go in the same sentence.

I run an organic dual disc for mine because its mainly a towing truck, works fine and holds anything i will ever throw at it (12000 lbs so far without an issue, not crazy power yet though).

Ask all the guys who tow heavy with a single ceramic and lots of power how they like it.

 

I don't get the idea that you need a super clutch to tow heavy. As long a the clutch will hold the torque without slipping when fully engaged, it shouldn't wear any worse than a "super duty" clutch.

I ran a fleet of 47 -53 chevy trucks once. When I'd buy one, it would usually have a worn out 11" clutch in it, along with a thoroughly burned up flywheel. I'd change them out for a 9 1/2" automotive clutch, which reduced the pedal effort to about 1/2, use granny gear like it's supposed to be used, match engine speed to road speed when I shifted, (usually double clutched out of habit, cut my teeth on a tri-plex with no synchros) and never had to replace one. Wore out several trucks, with multiple engines in each. One of them was pretty well hopped up, ie outran anything 350 CU or less (this was a 235 six) and had trouble blowing the armatures on generators, and throwing fan blades through the hood.

I've seen guys that seem to think they have to slip the clutch in every gear. No wonder they wear em out. Also it seems that most folks are not apt to use granny unless they're pulling a stump. Low (granny) gear is to get everything spinning without putting a lot of slip on the clutch. After that, if you don't slip the clutch there's no wear or heat build up.

 

O I would say i pull most of the time during hay season about 10-12 1500lb round bails! So about 15-18k lbs but I would like to see a solid/ reliable 450hp! I have found a single disc 13" clutch that said good for 600hp but not recommended for towing. I don't understand that because like j_martin is sayin as if it dosent slip at take off and holds the weight and power and dosent build heat why would it not be recommended for towing? Also another variable I have is 3:54 gears. Thanks for chimming in.

 

The issue with the "600hp single clutch" is that because it is ceramic (or ceramic/kevlar) it is either engaged or not, there is no in between. A rough engagement with 10+k hooked behind you makes towing and backing up a load especially difficult.

Lots of clutches will hold heavy weight fine if you drive them accordingly, not many do these days. Its when you add power and want to use it that starts slipping those clutches that are not designed for it.

With a dual disc (organic faces) you get the smooth engagement with a greater holding power for pulling large loads with lots of power infront of it. The downfall to dual discs is slower shifting speed and greater noise when the clutch pedal is pushed down.


I personally went with a dual disc organic because i intended to go to compound turbos and pull 10k+, i did the same as you and bought the clutch (that would handle the power/load without slippage and allow smooth pedal feel and engagment) for all my future plans.

 

Granny gear is great when going forward, its when you back up that those single high hp clutches can be a pain.

 

That's what low range is for!

 

Low range, yes if you have a 4wd and plan on using it when moving the load.

When i am manuevering some tight loads, no way i could do it with 4wd as its just too hard on the front end if its not slippery ground.

I run with my hubs locked in all winter and use 4wd on/off as needed, i dont even like parking it at the mall with 4wd as it gets tough to turn even with snowy conditions.

 

I have had a South Bend Con OFE in my '01 that tows a 10,000 pound trailer behind it most days.
It is far from stock, but around 400ish HP, would be my guess.
The clutch has 110,000 miles on it.
Reversing it in tight situations is a little harder than a stock clutch.
I use 4 L if the ground is loose.

I also use Granny low when towing from a dead stop, and have been shifting my own gears for years.

Hope that helps.

 

I use low range without locking the hubs when I need to. I am making decent power and have about 150K on a Zoom single.

 

My '01 has the lame Dana 60 front axle, with no locking hubs, otherwise I would use 4L on firm surfaces too.

 

Bummer!

 

SBC OKHD here. Camper's on all the time,34" tires and Smarty's cranked up to SW#7 default. 5th gear floored the clutch doesn't slip. Pretty smooth but reverse about 1/2 engaged will get a dab chattery.