Charging Issues
Charging Issues
Having issues with the charging system in my '92 W250 CTD.
I was driving home from a parts run earlier today, and noticed the volt gauge indicated it wasn't charging. Immediatly turned off the lights, heater fan and radio, and shortly afterwards noticed the trans was shifting in and out of OD.
When I got home, I checked the voltage, and it was sitting on 12.6 volts. It would start to charge, then stop, then charge, then stop, all the while the cylce of off/on charging gets faster and faster, until it seems like a relay clicking on/off fast.
Shut the truck off, switched the AC relay for the ASC relay. and nothing, not charging. Got on the Stickey, and found the instrucions for setting the Crank sensor. Cleaned up the crank pulley, and the CPS, and reset to .050. Started engine and still no charging. Switched out the Alt for a new one I had on the shelf, and still no charge.
I'm going to get a couple of new relays tommorrow and try them out, but I wanted to know if I have missed a step in my diagnosis, or do I keep plugging along? The computer is a Mopar replacement, but when it was replaced I don't know.
Any all help/info would be great. I'm going to try new relays and a new CPS, but if they don't work out then I may try the external regulator conversion.
Thanks in advance
MatthewH
I was driving home from a parts run earlier today, and noticed the volt gauge indicated it wasn't charging. Immediatly turned off the lights, heater fan and radio, and shortly afterwards noticed the trans was shifting in and out of OD.
When I got home, I checked the voltage, and it was sitting on 12.6 volts. It would start to charge, then stop, then charge, then stop, all the while the cylce of off/on charging gets faster and faster, until it seems like a relay clicking on/off fast.
Shut the truck off, switched the AC relay for the ASC relay. and nothing, not charging. Got on the Stickey, and found the instrucions for setting the Crank sensor. Cleaned up the crank pulley, and the CPS, and reset to .050. Started engine and still no charging. Switched out the Alt for a new one I had on the shelf, and still no charge.
I'm going to get a couple of new relays tommorrow and try them out, but I wanted to know if I have missed a step in my diagnosis, or do I keep plugging along? The computer is a Mopar replacement, but when it was replaced I don't know.
Any all help/info would be great. I'm going to try new relays and a new CPS, but if they don't work out then I may try the external regulator conversion.
Thanks in advance
MatthewH
Matthew, my 91.5(d250),is having same issue.I just got on here to see if anyone has had the same problem,( mine's auto., trans). It seems ok a idle, but more rpms, chg., needle really gets to jumping,new volt reg., I will ck.,the sticky, keep in touch.
I recently ran into some electrical gremlins myself I found that my connections at my battery were very poor. After cleaning everything up and putting a new connectors in making sure everything was clean bright and tight all my problems stopped just something to look at. Hth
I recently ran into some electrical gremlins myself I found that my connections at my battery were very poor. After cleaning everything up and putting a new connectors in making sure everything was clean bright and tight all my problems stopped just something to look at. Hth
Maybe running a ground wire right to the computer might help?
I did the regulator mod from the sticky on a friends 92 w250 and now it charges 14.75+ 
I didn't know the crank sensor was for the OD and not the alternator, I disconnected it when I installed the regulator thinking it would interfere. I will be installing the tps delete soon, do I still need to have it connected?
Thanks.

I didn't know the crank sensor was for the OD and not the alternator, I disconnected it when I installed the regulator thinking it would interfere. I will be installing the tps delete soon, do I still need to have it connected?
Thanks.
You need the crank sensor signal for OD to work. It's rare for the regulator in the PCM to die, so always make sure that it is not just a crank sensor problem before slapping a band-aid on it. Using a pot to control the OD wont work if there is no signal from the crank sensor.
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Thanks for the responses
I had mine flake out one foggy day. I messed with the plugs and the problem never came back. Truck has history of misplaced A21 circuit wiring getting shorted by the throttle linkage and taking out a fusible link. I'll have to take a look-see at that harness that goes along the left side of the engine.
Thanks
On mine, according to the service record that came with the truck the A21 (power) wire from the IP to the KSB temp sensor was chaffed by the throttle linkage. Looks like that sort of mischief could happen to other harnesses near there.
Update,
I installed new relays, and it didn't help, but figured that after doing some searching, but hey, there cheap and there new.
Ran the entire harness from the CPS all the way to the computer, same from the alt. Other than some flaking factory tape by the 2 large square plugs on the back of the motor, all the wires were in great shape, no chaffing or modified wiring. I took the square plugs apart and the plug for the alt wiring harness, everything is clean and in great shape.
Still waiting for my CPS, the dealer forgot to order it on Friday when I called, so maybe it will be here tomorrow
I installed new relays, and it didn't help, but figured that after doing some searching, but hey, there cheap and there new.
Ran the entire harness from the CPS all the way to the computer, same from the alt. Other than some flaking factory tape by the 2 large square plugs on the back of the motor, all the wires were in great shape, no chaffing or modified wiring. I took the square plugs apart and the plug for the alt wiring harness, everything is clean and in great shape.
Still waiting for my CPS, the dealer forgot to order it on Friday when I called, so maybe it will be here tomorrow
HaHa, Success,
Installed new CPS, shimmed to .050, and put the front of the motor back togeather. Started the truck, and once the grid heaters quit cycling, got a steady 14.30 volts. Drove it around the country block, and everything works great, shifts into OD and stays there.
Thanks for all the help and the "Sticky". If it wasn't for everybodies help, I would still be stuck, figuring out the charging system.
Thanks Again
Installed new CPS, shimmed to .050, and put the front of the motor back togeather. Started the truck, and once the grid heaters quit cycling, got a steady 14.30 volts. Drove it around the country block, and everything works great, shifts into OD and stays there.
Thanks for all the help and the "Sticky". If it wasn't for everybodies help, I would still be stuck, figuring out the charging system.
Thanks Again





