I have talked to a few people who have done P-Pump swaps, or have done extensive research on it, and every single one of them has told me it would be easier, and possibly cost less to just buy a 2nd gen motor, swap it in, and sell your old motor. I do agree that a P-Pumped 1st Gen would be cool though.

 

Good point. 500hp with a p-pump or a common rail is nothing compared to 500hp with a VE pump. As far as the cool factor. I say let me see you take a 160hp motor and triple the HP output or even quadruple it. Do that and get back to me Mr. 325hp common rail from the factory.

 

OOps I was thinking OD trans swap for a second....too many thoughts rattling around in my head at once...sorry..

And the reason there aren't more 500-600hp VE motors is that 1st gen owners are cheap bastards

 

The most noticeable difference is that a p-pumped motor with twins at 500hp runs pretty clean and a VE pumped motor at the same power level will smoke badly.

 

That is generally true. The other cheap way to go about it is to buy a blown up P-pumped engine and scavenge the parts off that.

 

That's what i did. 300 for a burned up 97 5spd dually. by the time i sold the rest of the truck i was 2000 ahead. just my .02.
TOMMY

 

That"s a heck of a deal. I saw in you sig that you run a 47RE, how did you do that?

 

I've seen a couple of people with 47RE trannys in their sig, and I've been wondering the same thing.

 

I just thought about it and his says full manual which would make it more like a RH right? Wouldn't you need the ecu from a '96+ auto truck to make an RE work?

 

Sorry for the late reply, but i don't visit often enough.
I'll continue this thread-jack.
It's like a 47rh in that u only use wires to control 3rd & lock-up. like a re in the sense no govenor.
Each shift is by lever only. 1st is 1st and so on.
I could not find a rh to save my life so i went re/full-man.
If I was to do it again I would build the 518 with a tight converter and save
(no billett input shaft 600, no lockup t/q 600 rather than 1000 & no 200 manual valve body)1200.
Of course that dosent take in to consideration block adaptor, diff starter. crossmember redrilling, driveshaft swap & shift linkage mods.
Needless to say I bit off more than I could chew, plus building the trans myself(thanks--DAVID!!!) it was worth all the trouble.
Besides if i'am gonna mess with thas thing, I may as well know whats inside it right?
TOMMY

 

Sorry to call up a dead post, but after going through this, I have some new info on my issue and wonder if anyone might shed more light on my options. I have a 95 2500 with a motor out of a 93, here is the issue, the person that had this swap done was not informed that it was an older engine and instead of the guy swapping over the pumps and keeping the 7100, he used the rotary pump and it has the smoke valve adjuster stripped off. Now that I have my turbo working properly again, I am still getting no power. My question is, since he kept the 95's turbo but is using the Rotary pump, could this cause my lack of power or is it more likely that the pump has been turned down or the lift pump is weak? I just swapped in an adjustable WG thinking that it would solve some issues, since the factory unit was seized. There is no black smoke at all, so I could turn up the pump, but I would like to know if there is a problem because of the pump and turbo being from different applications first.

 

The '95 turbo is a good match a VE pumped engine.

It sounds like the pump is not turned up enough.

When you say "smoke valve adjuster stripped off", do you mean that there is no AFC housing on your pump? If so, then that pump is not off a Dodge.

Can you get the CPL number off the data plate on the timing case?

 

the ve is good for almost 500 horses and with the 14mm head you can get even more. in my opinion 500 horses in our light trucks is plenty unless you plan on pulling it or something intense like that. basically what i am getting at is i would keep the ve. unless you want to pull it and a p-pump can make more power but at a cost of not having a very road worthy truck with stopping and going. a few friends have p-pumped second gens and they are to the point where their trucks are not very dependable. i know i just said a lot and kind of supported both but i would keep the ve just my opinion.

 

Thanks for the quick response. The adjuster I am talking about is behind a bolt, even the bolt is a Jerry Rigged unit that should not be there! The CPL # is 1351.

 

A VE pump with the 14mm head rotor is not street able by any means. The tolerances between it and the case are so small that the pump will overheat super quick if you are just getting groceries. The 14mm is only for track purposes and will inevitably deteriorate your pump way faster and reliability will plummet. In my opinion, 450 is about the max power you can get out of a VE and still have a reliable setup.