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broken part in steering box?

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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 09:12 PM
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From: victoria bc
broken part in steering box?

So what started out as a simple attempt to do the input shaft seal and rebuild the coupler of course turns into a multi day project.

Finally after a bunch of hell to get the steering box off so I can get the steering couple out, since I couldn't get the rag join apart... A power steering line rips...

Then taking apart the coupler I discover the end where the pin goes is broke.
http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5aaead33.jpg
Looks like it broke once and someone tried to weld it back together and drilled a hole in it perpendicular to the first hole making it pretty weak.

So then I take apart the steering box and find this..... http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/...psd39155db.jpg
Looks like that groved ring on the inside of the adjuster plug has a hairline crack in it. Unless some metal pieces broke .off it .looks like the ring is narrower in that grove.
Which seems like a weak point in the design.
Any ideas what to do about this? Can you get just that piece? Does it come in the rebuild kit?
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 09:22 PM
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Honestly since it looks like someone else has been playing around in there, probably a decent idea to find another gear box.

As for your questions I cannot help, just going to suggest finding another one and starting over. Loosing steering on a truck is bad for you and for anyone else on the road at that time.
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 11:57 PM
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I agree with 93Flatbed, you can go cheap on go fast parts and accessories but never on brakes and steering. I would replace it, not repair it.
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 12:55 AM
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From: victoria bc
I dont think someones been messing with the steering box. Just the shaft.
I filled everything in with a weld. http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3533aa60.jpg

The pin fit in pretty snug. Yall still think its worth replacing? My other question was about welding on hardened parts. Wouldn't the weld will draw out the temper?
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 07:25 AM
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I would replace it. If it fails you can't steer. If it did happen you can bet that part would be looked at to find the reason of the breakage. Then finding a home repair would lead to other problems most likely.

It is not worth taking the risk.
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 09:01 AM
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From: victoria bc
Alright I'm convinced. All very.good.points and.ill replace the shaft.
Any advice.on the pump about that crack. If its worth rebuilding or shall I just replace that too.
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 11:07 AM
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From: Apple Valley Ca.
Replace everything that way you know it's Good .
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Old Jun 7, 2013 | 11:24 AM
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From: Near Wetaskiwin AB
welding will draw any temper out the piece you welded on. thats why your not supposed to weld on the frame or certain parts of the axle tube. tempering requires precise timing and temperature measurements that you cant get with the wifes oven.
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Old Jun 10, 2013 | 11:48 AM
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From: victoria bc
Hey so Im gonna take the advice and replace them.both.

I just got a new steering box and it looks different though. It's got a little extended pin sticking out of the input shaft where my old one doesn't. Is it sposed to have that or wh goin on?[IMG] http://i1284.photobucket.com/albums/...ps58866d4b.jpg
[/IMG]
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Old Jun 10, 2013 | 06:56 PM
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From: victoria bc
So I talked to a steering box remanufacturer and he said that groves ring that I thought was cracked is supposed to have that crack. Can anyone back this up? I don't wanna spend $300 on a new.one if it is just the seal.
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Old Jun 10, 2013 | 08:15 PM
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From: Apple Valley Ca.
best to put a new box in that way you don't have to stress over working on it day n and day out .
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 02:42 PM
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From: victoria bc
It's not too stressful working on it. Spending the money is the stressful part.

So I used the reseal kit on my old steering box and first test run seems to be fine.
It seems that crack is supposed to be there like the reman. Guy said unless someone knows otherwise.

Also just for the record, he said sometime you'll get a steering box made for gm instead of dodge. And this version is the same except for the extended pin on the end of the input Shaffer which is called the torsion bar.
Confirmation would be good on this first but he said I could just cut it off with a hacksaw.
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