My broken steering box bracket .
My broken steering box bracket .
For anyone who has not inspected their steering box bracket recently, please do so, or you may end up having to change your plans unexpectedly.
After hearing the CLUNK when I parked in front of a taco shop I inspected the front end and saw the problem, my steering box broke loose.
Here is a pic of the plate after removal.
After hearing the CLUNK when I parked in front of a taco shop I inspected the front end and saw the problem, my steering box broke loose.
Here is a pic of the plate after removal.
Re:My broken steering box bracket .
Here's a shot of the typical cracks which occur around the lower steering box bolts. These cracks were also visable on the back of the bracket
Re:My broken steering box bracket .
Here is the result of my hours of bending, welding & grinding. It looks like it'll do, I really wanted to buy a new one but I couldn't even get a price due to the dealers all being closed late Saturday.
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Re:My broken steering box bracket .
Once I find another bracket, I plan on reinforcing it and adding another ear to it so It'll be bolted to the frame with 4 bolts and not just 3.
I think what helped the breaks occur are the 33" tires I run and the borgeson steering shaft. I think the weak link in the steering was the stock steering coupler, which then became the steering box bracket after I installed the Borgeson.
Cheers,
Joe V
I think what helped the breaks occur are the 33" tires I run and the borgeson steering shaft. I think the weak link in the steering was the stock steering coupler, which then became the steering box bracket after I installed the Borgeson.
Cheers,
Joe V
Re:My broken steering box bracket .
Hey Joe,
That's a very good series of pics on the problem. It's hard to describe with words were to look and, what to look for when asked about this problem. Your pics say it all.....BTW, my brother went thru the exact same thing...
Bob.
That's a very good series of pics on the problem. It's hard to describe with words were to look and, what to look for when asked about this problem. Your pics say it all.....BTW, my brother went thru the exact same thing...
Bob.
Re:My broken steering box bracket .
If you plan on leaving that bracket on, or welding pieces to the new one before you use it, you'd be well advised to stress relieve (heat treat) the bracket after welding. The original failed by fatigue, and weld metal is nowhere near as good at resisting fatigue as the original, unless you heat treat it. I can give you details on how to do that, if you decide to go that route.
John
John
Re:My broken steering box bracket .
The technical requirement for the stress relief is to heat the part to between 1000F and 1350F, and hold at that temperature for between 10-15 minutes. That presumes you can measure the temperature of the part in some way.
If you can get to a welding supply shop, you should be able to buy a "Tempil Stick" rated for 1000F. You use the Tempil Stick like a crayon. You heat the part to what you believe is the right temperature, turn the torch away from the part, and then stroke the Tempil stick over the part. If it is too cold, the crayon leaves a white/yellow colored line. If the part is at the correct temperature, or above it, the crayon leaves a line that melts and glistens. You heat the part slowly until the crayon just leaves a melted mark, and then alternately keep applying heat and checking the temperature for 10-15 minutes, trying to only just keep the crayon melted. It helps to put some sort of insulation under and around the part to hold the heat in, and try to do it in a sheltered area, where the wind can't get to you. Make sure you are not actually heating the part at the same time you are checking the temperature. Try not to overheat the part. With oxyfuel you can put the heat in too quickly, and I've seen some people melt thin parts.
If you can't get a tempil stick, wait until late at night. If you do the heating in a dark room, a temperature of about 1200F will show up as a very, very dull red color on the part. Keep it that way for about 10 minutes.
John
If you can get to a welding supply shop, you should be able to buy a "Tempil Stick" rated for 1000F. You use the Tempil Stick like a crayon. You heat the part to what you believe is the right temperature, turn the torch away from the part, and then stroke the Tempil stick over the part. If it is too cold, the crayon leaves a white/yellow colored line. If the part is at the correct temperature, or above it, the crayon leaves a line that melts and glistens. You heat the part slowly until the crayon just leaves a melted mark, and then alternately keep applying heat and checking the temperature for 10-15 minutes, trying to only just keep the crayon melted. It helps to put some sort of insulation under and around the part to hold the heat in, and try to do it in a sheltered area, where the wind can't get to you. Make sure you are not actually heating the part at the same time you are checking the temperature. Try not to overheat the part. With oxyfuel you can put the heat in too quickly, and I've seen some people melt thin parts.
If you can't get a tempil stick, wait until late at night. If you do the heating in a dark room, a temperature of about 1200F will show up as a very, very dull red color on the part. Keep it that way for about 10 minutes.
John
Re:My broken steering box bracket .
Great pics! I know that in the case of Scouts, adding a plate btw the steering box and frame adds alot of strength. An additional crossmember btw frame rails backing up the steering box adds even more strength, however I don't know how you'd accomplish this on the Dodge frame.
How 'bout a pic of your rig with Scout in tow?
I'm currently replacing the body on my '76 that has 7 in. or so of lift with shackle reversal and 35s. Oops, kinda forgot I'm on a Dodge CTD site.
How 'bout a pic of your rig with Scout in tow?
I'm currently replacing the body on my '76 that has 7 in. or so of lift with shackle reversal and 35s. Oops, kinda forgot I'm on a Dodge CTD site.
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