bannerd

Well I found a RWAL unit from ebay for $40, should be here next week. I'm going to get rear brakes as well AND I think I might need rear bearings for the D70 Axel so I'll do that as well. Just need to source good parts!

u2slow

Timken is quite reasonable from rockauto. Be very careful about what application bearings/seals you choose for a Dodge axle... best to match numbers with the old ones. Too many different possibilities in the listings.

edwinsmith

Does the eBay source have more than one Dump Valve? If so a link would be helpful. Thanks

Shelby/Dakota

Hate to hijack the thread but sounds like Bannerd is having a similar issue to what I have been fighting for awhile now.
Replaced my master, rebuilt the front brakes (Flex hoses, calipers, Rotors, and pads), bypassed the RWAL. I had previously rebuilt the rear brakes (shoes, wheel cylinders, and drums). Pedal still sinks to the floor while pressed.
I was told to clamp off the flex lines on the calipers to verify the master isnt bleeding between the reservoirs. When I did that the pedal is firm and does not sink as you press against it. Should I be looking at the front end of the brakes for the problem? Possibly need some more bleeding on the calipers?

Fordzilla

In my past life as a working mechanic, I have had occasions where air is trapped somewhere in the system, and ordinary bleeding methods would not remove it...In those cases, I reversed the direction of flow from my pressure bleeder (diaphragm/bladder type) and forced fluid backwards from each bleeder screw beginning with the one farthest from the M/C...I placed a drain pan under the M/C to catch the overflow, and made sure to wash away the brake fluid from painted surfaces right away...In each case the trapped air was forced back to the top and escaped...It made a big mess, but it worked...Try it if all else fails......Ben

bannerd

He only had the one proportioning valve. Oddly enough I was talking to a local dodge guy and he went with a manual valve on his truck. If you don't have at least 10% holding at the rear the brakes will fall to the floor every time and wont cause a constant pressure. Which is bizarre because that tells me 90% of the stopping power is in the front?

He ended up removing the computer and just having a manual system that he doesn't have to adjust as much.

u2slow

Sounds like the 90/10% bias is the threshold where the combo valve 'trips' and blocks off the rear circuit. I forget if its the 1/2t or the 3/4t & 1t valve (they are different)... but one type doesn't actually proportion. The proportioning is left up to the sizes of the calipers and wheel cyls.

I'm confused how the computer affects drum brake adjustment? For me, it has everything to do with the condition of the brake hardware, and I often have to manually adjust them even when the hardware seems good.

haily grace

do they return to the previous parameter after adjusting them manually ?

u2slow

I'm not sure what you mean.

Rear mechanical brake adjustment is what it is.... how close the shoes are to the drum.

If you have tripped the combo valve... supposedly once you fix the leak and gravity bleed; a good hard stomp on the brakes is supposed to release the combo valve. However, in my experience an old valve jams and needs to be gutted and cleaned out to work again.