I gotta get my brakes working good, too long with so-so brakes. Lately, sometimes I have to stand on the pedal to get er to stop. I'm assuming that's a booster or vacuum pump problem? How to check that out?

Anyone know the length of the parking brake front cable for club cab? Also the Parking brake pedal assembly has a lot of side to side play in it. Is that repairable?

What braided brake hoses are available?

The fronts aren't that old so I will disassemble, clean and lube the caliper contact points. The rear is getting all new parts, probably all Raybestos and Timken bearings. Any recommendation for the rear hub seal? Bearing numbers?

Thanks guys

 

Just went through this completely a few weeks ago.

Just a thought- consider going to the 94+ drum brakes. I think you can switch backing plates and the hub. Then you get the drum which slides off and not have to break the axle oil every time.
Bearings:
Timken outer bearing is a set 38
Timken inner bearing set 417 (? 407). Or you can get them separate. I found at the time- the set price was less.
Seal- I used the CR seal which is now apart of SKF.
Inner bearing race is bigger than what comes in a standard automotive race driver set. You can grind down your old one- I had a pinion bearing tool that worked for the job. Freeze those races... and they drive in pretty easy.
The axle gasket-you can get them on amazon. Just look them up for a late 90s Ford or Chevy full-size van. I want to say Felpro package said E350 van.
I found the raysbestos cable was better quality than the Bendix cable.
Wheel cylinders use chevy 1 3/16 or the dodge 1 ton 1 1/8 inch bore.
Full spring/adjuster kit was ~$20 on amazon in carlson brand.
New axle selflocking nuts or upgrade to the newer style. Original nut is 2 9/16 if you need a socket.
Sand the seal surface on the axle w 400# wet/dry and make sure you don't have a deep groove or do a sleeve. make sure you clean the hub to remove any debris and the axle tube too. I used a piece of all thread with a big fender washer cut down on one side for a scraper.


M

 

since it says W250- make sure you go with the 1 ton shoes 12X3 and not the 12X2.5. Drums are the same.
You have to center the drum if you replace it.. If you get them turned-make sure you put a few washers and nuts on the studs and tighten them to make sure the turning operation doesn't move the drum off the axle centerline.

 

You can repair the P-brake pedal, here is what I did:

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...-pedal-326280/

...Mark

 

I thought the parking brake assy went on all the first Gen Dakotas... if you need a spare.

M

 

I've used all brands of e brake cables. Of all the aftermarket brands, Wagner lasted the longest...which is a few years.

Bought new cables from dodge. Should last longer, being made in Canada
If you can't fix your e brake assembly, Ollie has a few good ones out of automatic trucks which never got used.

 

With my parking brake not working properly I have smoked the year brakes a couple times, or more.
I have 3" shoes and the bigger wheel cylinders, so will replace with the same.
Will stay stock for now since I have too many projects. If the rear ever get changed with something else it will be discs. I HATE drum brakes.