brake peddle goes to floor
04-21-2019, 09:17 PM
#1
brake peddle goes to floor
My brake peddle suddenly goes to the floor on my 92 d250,did the brakes,new shoes/pads bled the system and still peddle goes to the floor,bad booster or vacuum pump?
04-21-2019, 09:39 PM
#2
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No mention here of:
Calipers, hoses, wheel cylinders, or other hydraulic parts.
So,
Bad booster ? if the pedal was rock hard....and didn't go down easily , so that means no
Master cylinder ? Possibly, but my money is always on rear wheel cylinders. Every time ive had air infiltration into the system (which is what you're describing), its been the rear wheel cylinders sucking air at the cups.
Or incorrect bleeding procedure
Or loose bleeder
Calipers, hoses, wheel cylinders, or other hydraulic parts.
So,
Bad booster ? if the pedal was rock hard....and didn't go down easily , so that means no
Master cylinder ? Possibly, but my money is always on rear wheel cylinders. Every time ive had air infiltration into the system (which is what you're describing), its been the rear wheel cylinders sucking air at the cups.
Or incorrect bleeding procedure
Or loose bleeder
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nonrev (04-22-2019)
04-23-2019, 08:24 AM
#3
Administrator
Do the brake and anti-lock lights come on? This is a common problem with these trucks. Use the KISS method and start with brake adjustment (not as simple as it sounds) and go from there...Mark
04-24-2019, 12:27 AM
#4
Registered User
Here is the way I set up the rear brakes...
1. Remove the axles so you can spin the drums easily.
2. Make sure your E-brake cables are in good condition and E-brake system functions properly.
3. Once that is confirmed then back off the E-brake adjustment and then pump the brakes a few times with the truck off.
4. Then adjust up the brake shoes until they just start to kiss the drum surface, then pump the brakes a few times, starting it for power assist is OK as well. then go check the brakes again, if they are no longer touching the drums adjust them up again and repeat with the pumping. Once they are not changing adjustment now you can adjust up your E-brake system.
5. Same basic principle....adjust the cable until they are just starting to get tension then cycle the E-brake pedal a couple times, once released go check the brake shoes contact to the drums again...if not making slight contact adjust and go back to #4.
6. Continue adjusting the E-brake system until the cables are snug and when released the drums are not dragging excessively....I like to use a big bar and lean on it to simulate some weight on the drums to check for "hold".
7. Now install the axles and go for a quick drive, when you come back put the E-brake on and see if they will hold the truck, if not adjust them a little bit at a time.
Usually takes me a good 30 min to get them set up properly.
But I wonder if your Rear RWAL valve is malfunctioning and allowing the fluid to bypass?
1. Remove the axles so you can spin the drums easily.
2. Make sure your E-brake cables are in good condition and E-brake system functions properly.
3. Once that is confirmed then back off the E-brake adjustment and then pump the brakes a few times with the truck off.
4. Then adjust up the brake shoes until they just start to kiss the drum surface, then pump the brakes a few times, starting it for power assist is OK as well. then go check the brakes again, if they are no longer touching the drums adjust them up again and repeat with the pumping. Once they are not changing adjustment now you can adjust up your E-brake system.
5. Same basic principle....adjust the cable until they are just starting to get tension then cycle the E-brake pedal a couple times, once released go check the brake shoes contact to the drums again...if not making slight contact adjust and go back to #4.
6. Continue adjusting the E-brake system until the cables are snug and when released the drums are not dragging excessively....I like to use a big bar and lean on it to simulate some weight on the drums to check for "hold".
7. Now install the axles and go for a quick drive, when you come back put the E-brake on and see if they will hold the truck, if not adjust them a little bit at a time.
Usually takes me a good 30 min to get them set up properly.
But I wonder if your Rear RWAL valve is malfunctioning and allowing the fluid to bypass?
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