Well, driving home last weekend I noticed my Brake Light and Antilock light on. I first tested the brakes and all seems well, GOOD. I knew I needed rear brake work and had the complete parts for it but never got to it. Well, last night I did the complete job (new rear shoes, axle seals, starwheel), I even cut off the stupid Self adjusting cable since that has NEVER stayed on no matter how many times I have taken them apart. I will now just adjust manually. Brakes work super but lights are still on. I have checked the switch on the antilock valve in the back, that was ok. I plan on checking my e-brake pedal to see if that looks ok (cable in shoes were fine). I have read about a vacuum switch that I need to track down and find on my fender (haven't checked that yet). Fluid looks ok and not filled with junk. I bled the antilock valve and front brakes last night, still lights are on. Any other ideas of what I should be looking for? Fuses? At least the trucks stops much better now so I know it isn't life threatening... LOL

 

Try unhooking the ABS computer back behind the glove compartment. There will be a bulkhead connector, just unplug it for 5-10 minutes with the key off. Plug it back in and see if it has cleared the inactive code that was set prior to the work. If it doesnt, there is still an active code that you will have to find.

 

Thanks Monty. I never knew about that connector. I will try that tonight when I get home. I checked my Vacuum switch last night and it did have a slightly corroded connector. Not really bad but even still, I plan on cleaning that up. ONCE I fix the stupid plastic plug that I broke off >. So if my glue job doesn't hold the vacuum hose on good enough, I will be buying a new one.

 

just a thought. check, clean the counter magnet in the rear diff. housing located on top of carrier. also check the wires going to it, make sure they didnt get pinched

 

;D ;D Problem solved. I did unplugged the RWAL connector and that seemed to shut the light off. Then a yesterday, they were back on again but this time I noticed my Tach stopped working and my directionals also didn't work. I was rather Pi**ed to say the least. I figured I had something going on pretty bad within the electrical department. Tried changing out some of my fuses and they all looked good and new ones didn't work either. Got the Service Manual out and started looking at the wiring diagrams to see if any Inline Fuse went. Noticed that Fuse # 9 controls (Tach, Blinkers, RWAL). Pull the fuse and it was good but didn't like how loose it was inside the fuse box. Pinched the connectors together and now everything works wonderful. So I think this whole time it was because the fuse wasn't making the best contact with the fusebox. One day it would work, another it wouldn't work. Or should I say, one BUMP it would work, then it wouldn't. Thaks for all the thoughts and help.

 

Great,, I need to bleed mine too, but I think I'll wate till it cools down out side.. Gets hot in the summer here in Okla, LOL.. Thx