I've noticed for a while now that my brakes are getting more and more sensitive, meaning it takes just the lightest tap on the brakes to lock the rears up. I've been trying to fix the RWAL for the past few weeks with no luck, but over the weekend noticed something else that might solve everthing.

I was pulling to a light and had to get on the brakes hard because of a car infront of me stopping abruptly, and as I hit the brakes hard, I could feel the peddle pushing back at me. It wasn't a lot of movement, but it was enough to get my attention. After that, I started noticing it doing it even on light braking, but just barely.

What would cause this and could it also be related to why my rears lock up so easily?

 

Are your rotors warped?? That will cause a pulsing in the pedal and some times if its really bad will make a destinctive sound. like WOOM WOOM WOOM when you ride the brakes.

But this sounds like they're in your back brakes. like maybe your abs is goin bad

 

If your rears are locking up at the slightest provocation, check your drums for oil on them.

 

No warped rotors and Yes, the back brakes. I don't doubt it could be the ABS as my ABS light is on. I am getting a # 7 code:

7-Electronic control module fuse pellet open, isolation output missing, or valve wiring shorted to ground

I've searched high and low for what an open fuse pellet is, no clue on the isolation output missing, and the wiring at the dumb valve is all good. I'll have my bed off in the next couple of weeks getting a flat bed, and really plan to put some time in on the wiring there incase I've missed something. But could that cause the brakes to lock up and the pulsing in the pedal? I've seen from searching that half the folks on here run with their ABS unplugged.

Did just that, no oil.

 

We have a truck that does the exact same thing. Does anyone know if you can just unplug the abs box to get rid of the abs?

 

Yes unplug it from behind the glove compartment and you'll need fittings to bypass it in the back.

 

bypassing that rwal solved all of my brake problems, from sinking pedal to locking the rears...

 

What is needed to connect those brake lines and take out the RWAL device on the frame rail? I'd suspect some sort of coupler is available.

 

Definitely a proportioning valve is required to fine tune the front/rear bias...othe that that, two short lengths of brake line, either 3/8 or 7/16, I dont remember...the pv requires adjustment whenever a couple of thousand pounds go in the back....

 

I thought our rides already had a PV on it? Where'd you mount yours?