First, I just want to say thanks to everyone on this site for all the great info. I've searched and learned TONS in just a few days. Thanks!!!

The past few days, I fixed the KDP with TST's kit, added a 12cm housing and did some mild tweaks the pump. All mods are listed in my sig. What a difference!!!! This is like a new truck to drive. Today I turned in the star wheel, and I can't get it to move after 2 turns and about 5 clicks. Is this bottomed out? Would turning this down even help anymore, based on the mods done in my truck? I remember reading on a thread that wannadiesel said that increments should be done in 2 turn increments, which lead me to beleive that maybe I can turn it in more.

I must say that I am getting addicted already to this stuff. I was planning on just doing a few things to this truck, and I'm already looking for more power.

 

One more thing, would you guys considered these pump tweaks "mild?" What do you guys consider a molested pump to be?

 

you can remove the starwheel to gain less preload on the spring if you want past bottoming it out.

 

Care to shed some more light on this? I don't want to have the truck bellow smoke everywhere. I also just have stock injectors. What are the affects of removing this?

 

Hi,

Welcome to DTR!!

This thread might help...

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=105199

 

Thanks, I will read that!

Are you on pirate? For some reason your screename looks familiar.

After reading that it looks like maybe 2 turns in is just how my truck "is" if something isn't binding it. I don't know if I want to take the wheel out, since I'd rather not make tons of smoke.

 

The only thing the starwheel removal will do is place more smoke control on your right foot. At full boost it will not increase your smoke, of course. It allows me to select who will get a black cloud of #2 in the grill.

 

I looked at it again today and it is bottomed out. There's about 5-6 threads from the top showing. Guess mine just came like that from the factory, unless someone else had been in there before me. How much does this thing smoke if I remove this? Any more power gains? I also shaved the washer today. This thing is so much more insane than stock... I can't beleive it!

Now another thing. I went to turn up the full power screw, and it feels like this one is bottomed too? I've turned it in 1 turn, tried to do another half turn but could only get it to turn another 1/4 turn before it was too hard. Yes, the locknut was loose. What is the deal with this? I've heard of people doing 2 turns and more on this. Maybe mine was tampered with before I got it too...

 

Originally there was an anti-tamper device on the full fuel screw. Usually a couple threads get buggered up when removing it. Removing the fuel screw completely from the pump and running a die over the threads often cures the problem. Sometimes, it's actually the pump top that has the buggered threads and a tap needs to be run through those threads as well. I would NOT recommend running a tap into the pump top with it on the truck...metal shavings have no place inside your injection pump! Removal of the AFC (pump top) is not too involved and will allow you to clean any offending material before re-assembly.

 

I removed the screw and the threads looked fine. I don't have time to mess with pulling the pump, so I guess 1.5 turns will have to do for now. Thanks for the help!