borgeson u-joint
When the pump went the steering box followed and every bump I hit would travel up the steering column just like an old tractor. So rather than fix it right away I kept driving it and reefing on the steering wheel until the splines let loose. I put a used box and pump on and tightened the set screw but the only thing keeping the shaft from turning is the set screw. I would like to get a new U-joint before I put a new box on.
Same happened to mine, and it started to wear the splines on the input shaft. Before installing a new one I tapped a second and third set screw, so i have a three point grip rather than just one. I think its a pretty shakey set up how the one screw is supposed to hold in the grove of the imput shaft. To much room for play if you ask me.
The splines are what are supposed to handle the load. The set screw just keeps it from sliding off. I think there may be other problems. The factory pot coupler has NO set screw, just a roll pin to keep it on the shaft. I have always wondered about Borgensens shafts, as the factory pot coupler was designed to handle the fore and aft movement between the steering box and the column (one attached to the frame, the other attached to the cab) There is a SUBSTANTIAL amount of movement between the two, and the factory coupler allows for this movement. The Borgensen uses a "double D" style shaft (male and female) to handle this movement, which, in my opinion, really is not any better than the pot coupler. Again, my opinion!
Trending Topics
That roll pin from the factory has a lot more contact surface than the point of the single set screw.
The Borgensen is made of suprisinly soft steel. I found this when I tapped the new one.
The Borgensen is made of suprisinly soft steel. I found this when I tapped the new one.
Interesting thread, since I noticed a couple of weeks ago my Borgensen u-joint was so sloppy loose, it could fall off, (just kidding), and no amount of tightning helped. The u-joint itself had play in it as well as the splines. I think as been stated, more points to tighten would help. After pricing a new joint on their web site, about $70, I dug up the oem shaft and slapped her back in. Quite frankly, a much better set-up IMHO. And only about $6 for a rebuild kit. Works for me
I've saved the OEM shaft and at some point I'll install a grease fitting in the little coupler box, rebuild it, and reinstall the OEM shaft.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
wcbcruzer
2nd Gen. Dodge Ram - No Drivetrain
22
Apr 30, 2008 06:58 PM
FDC
24 Valve Engine and Drivetrain
2
Jul 16, 2007 12:51 PM
Treangen
3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007
4
May 7, 2007 03:10 PM




