Diesel in gasoline engine I wouldn't be too concerned for, but the opposite I would be.

Isn't the real concern the octane level, and burning pistons ? Due to Pre-ignition ? The piston gets blowed back down before it's actually supposed to, and the lack of "lubrication" in the cylinder would also be a problem as well.


https://www.bellperformance.com/blog...nd-diesel-fuel

I've never seen anyone put gas in a diesel engine before, so I'm curious and maybe J should try running it for us to see just how it goes ....




NAh ! just joking.. Drain the tank and be done with it.

 

It was burning in a SBC 350....who cares!

 

Like the others have said,drain the best you can,dump in a bottle of two cycle oil and roll on. Not a big deal.

 

It's getting dang cold here. I don't relish the thought of draining and handling 22 gallons or so of cold stinky useless (except for burning brush) fuel.

Gasoline has less heat than deisel (less power),

ignites at a lower temperature (shouldn't make a difference as ignition is when the fuel hits hot compressed air),

probably burns at about the same rate, which is real fast (the main source of the deisel's characteristic rattle) Also I could temporarily retard the timing.

has lousy lubricity, (solvable by adding oil)

Grid heaters aren't a problem, as the fuel is not near them. The warning about gasoline and grid heaters comes from the trick of using a little gas in the air intake to start a balky engine.

Ethanol isn't a problem. (It is the high priced non-oxy stuff)

Unknowns are:
What, if any, are gasoline's effect on injection system's seals and o-rings?
How much would Oliver charge me if I wreck the IP?

I have half a mind to take T-man's dare.

Is there any literature about using gasoline and oil as emergency fuel in a relatively primitive diesel?

 

Well fill it with a couple gallons of used oil and run it. I think the added oil will quench any possible issues with the gasoline, and the effects of the gas on the seals....doubt it will cause too much especially with all the added oil/2 cycle.

 

Nope. A diesel can't "ping", detonate, pre-ignite, or whatever you want to all it as there is no fuel in the combustion chamber to "pre" ignite - ignition can only begin when fuel is injected.

At a 50/50 mix of hydraulic oil and gasoline, a VE pumped Cummins runs fine. Until it gets warmed up, it won't idle, but once up to temp, it idles fine as well.

Been there, done that. Lets just say it beat walking 17 miles.

I could get a picture in a few days of our deuce and a half if you want and according to Wikipedia

"One large use of a military multi-fuel engine was the LD series used in the US M35 ​2 1⁄2-ton and M54 5-ton trucks built between 1963 and 1970. A military standard design using M.A.N. technology, it was able to use different fuels without preparation.[4][5] Its primary fuel was Diesel #1, #2, or AP, but 70% to 90% of other fuels could be mixed with diesel, depending on how smooth the engine would run. Low octane commercial and aviation gasoline could be used if motor oil was added, jet fuel Jet A, B, JP-4, 5, 7, and 8 could be used, in an emergency fuel oil #1 and #2 could be used."

As far as being primitive, the Continental LDS-427 in our deuce will literally start at 0° F with no aid, burns clean, sips fuel, and runs like a scalded ****** now that we have the pump cranked up.

 

Redneck, Does that Continental engine use direct into the cylinder injection like the BT Cummins?

 

To tell the truth, I don't know. I always assumed it does, as any pre-cup engines I have been around won't start cold without glowplugs - whereas this Continental will start below freezing like it is 70° outside.

That, and it doesn't have the classic rattle that pre-cup engines have.

Furthermore, I have advanced the timing a fair bit to get the EGT's in check which pre-cup engines don't like either.

In short, I would bet my boots that it is a direct inject engine.

 

If you are interested in how multi-fuel engines are able to run on fuels other than automotive diesel and kerosene, check out this link:

Hypercycle Engine Manual

 

DeereCountry should pipe in on this tread, and school all of us on what the probabilities would be. Guy knows his stuff

 

Looks like that engine squirts a stream of fuel into a deep pocket in the piston (spherical combustion chamber), and then burns it as it evaporates out of that pocket. It would seem to me that fuel atomized and sprayed onto 1000 degree air at 27° BTDC would tend to blow the head off.

So the main difference is the BT engine sprays atomized fuel near and after TDC. I don't know if that makes much difference provided the injection event isn't real short, as all in at TDC.

 

The lubricity of winter fuel is considerable lower than that of straight number D2 diesel fuel. With temps right now in Minnesota in the high single digits and lows in the same single digits below zero straight number 2 diesel will not flow without waxing.

So with the tank drained from the fuel supply line it would leave you with less than 3 gallons of a gas & diesel mix in the tank. If that mix is half and half that's 1.5 gallons of gas in the diesel fuel. Refilling that same tank with straight number 2 is still not going to have enough winterizing to prevent the waxing from happening with only 1.5 gallons of gas.

If it was mine truck that I just did the same thing too I would empty it at the inlet of the lift pump and refill it with the winterized fuel blend, and pour in a double rate of the stanadyne lubricity additive and forget about my error at the pump.

 

I don't promote this but many professional truck drivers are using E85 up to 15% in their diesel fuel with straight D2 diesel in the winter in place of the winterized blend offered most places. The E85 has the ability to encapsulate the water and nearly eliminate the water in the diesel fuel from freezing and attaching to the wax crystals that form when the temps dip below the cloud point of diesel.

They are doing this with only a slight loss in performance in their fuel mileage at a lower cost than a winterized blend and without a power loss that is seen with the winterized version of diesel fuel. This is being done in new and old class 8 engines also so it's not just old fuel system that are doing this.

 

Years ago I had an Isuzu Pup with the 2.2 Diesel, the manual stated that you could use up to 5 gal of gas with summer fuel if winter fuel was not available. I would drain as much out as possible and refill the tank with good fuel. Maybe add some 2 stroke to add lubricity.
MM

 

Does that affect the 20k dollar diesel particulate filter in the newer diesels? I know that the ones in the big diesels are cleanable and reusable and there are some companies that will renew the smaller ones. I assume the big ones cost a lot,because the one on my old VW TDI cr car was a 6k dollar part, but I don't really know...Mark