on board air
#2
Registered User
By "under hood", I assume you are meaning either belt-driven or gear-driven air-compressors.
Genuine gear-driven compressors are available, but I think you sacrifice the vacuum-pump.
Anything belt-driven will require adding a V-belt pulley in front of the fan-pulley and making a simple bracket.
Several of the off-road crowd have converted the upright York A/C compressors into air-compressors with success.
I have on-board air, but my compressor is electric and mounted between the rear of the frame, right behind the air-tank.
Genuine gear-driven compressors are available, but I think you sacrifice the vacuum-pump.
Anything belt-driven will require adding a V-belt pulley in front of the fan-pulley and making a simple bracket.
Several of the off-road crowd have converted the upright York A/C compressors into air-compressors with success.
I have on-board air, but my compressor is electric and mounted between the rear of the frame, right behind the air-tank.
#4
Registered User
Although getting harder and harder to find, the vacuum-over-hydraulic trailer-brake kits come with an engine-specific belt-pulley that is the same O.D. as the fan-pulley and mounts to the front of the fan-pulley; you may be able to source the pulley alone from one of those companies; best would be to just get the entire trailer-brake kit, that way you would be able to tow trailers with real brakes and have the option of utilizing V-belt accesories.
When I built my Cummins into my Ford, I had an extra trailer-brake pulley that was meant for a Ford engine; I had my machinist magician friend to re-bore/drill the center and mounting holes to match my serpentine pulley.
I have the factory Ford A/C and the trailer vacuum-pump driven by the V-belt.
#5
Registered User
One idea for the onboard air:
Do you have A/C? Do you use it? Lots of people sacrafice thier A/C to have an air compressor. Put an air filter and oiler on the intake side and rig up a hose to collect the commpressed air. I can't say I have seen it on a Dodge, but have seen lots of Chevy's with it.
BK also mentioned the York compressor. If you buy a high dollar Oasis Air electric compressor, that what it is. Driven by a starter motor basically. I know because I have one. I got it out of a scrap pile. It had a fubar'd pump on it, and I put a $9.99 U-Pull-It Ford a/c pump on it. Works sweet.
Do you have A/C? Do you use it? Lots of people sacrafice thier A/C to have an air compressor. Put an air filter and oiler on the intake side and rig up a hose to collect the commpressed air. I can't say I have seen it on a Dodge, but have seen lots of Chevy's with it.
BK also mentioned the York compressor. If you buy a high dollar Oasis Air electric compressor, that what it is. Driven by a starter motor basically. I know because I have one. I got it out of a scrap pile. It had a fubar'd pump on it, and I put a $9.99 U-Pull-It Ford a/c pump on it. Works sweet.
#6
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Just to let you know, the old chrysler RV2 compressors used from the '60s to about 1979 work great too. Just like the york compressors they have a separate oil sump and you don't have to use a separate oiler. I've got one on my 84 ramcharger and it'll fill up my 1.6 gallon tank in 25 seconds.
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#9
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By "under hood", I assume you are meaning either belt-driven or gear-driven air-compressors.
Genuine gear-driven compressors are available, but I think you sacrifice the vacuum-pump.
Anything belt-driven will require adding a V-belt pulley in front of the fan-pulley and making a simple bracket.
Several of the off-road crowd have converted the upright York A/C compressors into air-compressors with success.
I have on-board air, but my compressor is electric and mounted between the rear of the frame, right behind the air-tank.
Genuine gear-driven compressors are available, but I think you sacrifice the vacuum-pump.
Anything belt-driven will require adding a V-belt pulley in front of the fan-pulley and making a simple bracket.
Several of the off-road crowd have converted the upright York A/C compressors into air-compressors with success.
I have on-board air, but my compressor is electric and mounted between the rear of the frame, right behind the air-tank.
i should have been more specific! yes, i was talking about belt driven compressors. i think i could fab the bracketry if need be. i was kinda hoping someone had a picture of their setup to give me some ideas.
i have dealt with electric pumps and decided that the only way i will do that is if i have an isolated starting battery. The cars at the shop with Air ride systems are constantly killing batterys because the air pumps seem to start up every time you start the car. it doesnt help that they only run for a couple of minutes on a daily basis and im sure it would help if the systems didnt leak, but i believe the point is still valid. its a rather large draw for the one battery that needs to do everything . the other thing i didnt like was how long they ran before the tank was full. seems like they got awefull warm. these were all twin pump air ride systems. not sure how large the tank was, maybe a gallon or so.
I'm also interested in the PTO screw compressor that i saw here: http://www.vanair.com/content/supple...0-100407-2.pdf
i have an auto so it would have to run on the TC PTO. only thing is i have no idea how that PTO works, when it is engaged, etc.
anyway, keep the ideas coming, people!
#10
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I am playing with an idea to mount an additional V-belt sheave to the front of my Alternator pulley like the way they used to mount the smog air pumps of the 70's.
Another idea is if you can add an additional sheave to the front of the crankshaft pulley you might be able to hang the compressor below the engine if you have enough clearance, or run a jackshaft through ball bearing pillow blocks to the rear of the engine and mount the compressor by the transmission.
The Pantera’s used this shaft drive at the back of the engine to run the accessories because the engine was in the rear of the car facing forwards
A real air compressor would be a Bendix Tu-Flo 550 or larger and control it with a Bendix D-2 governor; the compressors are water-cooled and have pressure fed bearings from the engine oil.
Here is some good information on Air Brake systems covering all of the pneumatics I used to work on when I was a mechanic.
http://www.bendixvrc.com/itemDisplay...ocumentID=5032
I would love to have Air Brakes on my truck.
I have seen a few trucks around here with the Oasis air compressor and they look to be a quality made unit.
If I could machine a coupler for the tapered shaft I would put one together myself using a winch motor and any 2-cylinder compressor.
http://www.awdirect.com/12-vdc-extre...r-compressors/
Here is another unit I was looking at; this unit sits behind the fender well in the bed.
http://www.12-voltair.com/pdf/sales_brochure.pdf
http://www.12-voltair.com/products_12v6cf.asp
With these compressors an auxiliary battery is a wise addition.
Jim
Another idea is if you can add an additional sheave to the front of the crankshaft pulley you might be able to hang the compressor below the engine if you have enough clearance, or run a jackshaft through ball bearing pillow blocks to the rear of the engine and mount the compressor by the transmission.
The Pantera’s used this shaft drive at the back of the engine to run the accessories because the engine was in the rear of the car facing forwards
A real air compressor would be a Bendix Tu-Flo 550 or larger and control it with a Bendix D-2 governor; the compressors are water-cooled and have pressure fed bearings from the engine oil.
Here is some good information on Air Brake systems covering all of the pneumatics I used to work on when I was a mechanic.
http://www.bendixvrc.com/itemDisplay...ocumentID=5032
I would love to have Air Brakes on my truck.
I have seen a few trucks around here with the Oasis air compressor and they look to be a quality made unit.
If I could machine a coupler for the tapered shaft I would put one together myself using a winch motor and any 2-cylinder compressor.
http://www.awdirect.com/12-vdc-extre...r-compressors/
Here is another unit I was looking at; this unit sits behind the fender well in the bed.
http://www.12-voltair.com/pdf/sales_brochure.pdf
http://www.12-voltair.com/products_12v6cf.asp
With these compressors an auxiliary battery is a wise addition.
Jim
#11
http://www.kilbyenterprises.com/kits.htm
Kilby does not make a direct kit for the 12 valves, but they do have the alternator pulleys (8 rib serp + v belt), and many other pieces to builde your own set-up with a york.
Kilby does not make a direct kit for the 12 valves, but they do have the alternator pulleys (8 rib serp + v belt), and many other pieces to builde your own set-up with a york.
#12
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I know the engine is not a cummins, but here's some pics of my onboard air setup on my 84 ramcharger with a 360 magnum. The tank is mounted on the passenger fenderwell where the air filter is mounted for the cummins.
#13
Registered User
Another brainstorm, thanks to Mr. Jim Lane.
With such a LINE-SHAFT running the length of the truck, any number of useful accessories could be employed, such as a big compressor, generator, auxilliary A/C, table-saw, drill-press, etc., etc.
OH!!!!!............., a remote-mounted radiator and fan, too.
#14
Administrator
Another brainstorm, thanks to Mr. Jim Lane.
With such a LINE-SHAFT running the length of the truck, any number of useful accessories could be employed, such as a big compressor, generator, auxilliary A/C, table-saw, drill-press, etc., etc.
OH!!!!!............., a remote-mounted radiator and fan, too.
With such a LINE-SHAFT running the length of the truck, any number of useful accessories could be employed, such as a big compressor, generator, auxilliary A/C, table-saw, drill-press, etc., etc.
OH!!!!!............., a remote-mounted radiator and fan, too.
My idea is to use a length of Hot Rolled Steel shaft 1" in diameter for the shaft and pass it through a pillow block at each end with either a single row ball bearing or a wider double row bearing.
The belt could be a standard "V "belt or if I could find the parts a cogged belt set, adjustments could be made by sliding the pillow block on slotted mounting holes.
The drive end of the shaft could be tapered and cut for a woodruff key and you could mount any AC compressor clutch so the power could be controlled electrically from the cab.
However using the AC clutch the belts would be limited to the “V” type and not the cogged belt but I was also thinking why not install a serpentine pulley on the shaft and simply use a longer drive belt to drop down a bit lower and catch the accessory drive just below the crank pulley.
At the back end of the shaft by the transmission you could slot the shaft to accept a square key so aligning any 1” bore pulley along the shaft to line up with whatever you wanted to power. Keeping the pulleys the same size would make it easier to control your RPM’s.
You would need to fashion some kind of a guard to protect the shaft.
Anyhow this was just some of my thoughts that got drawn onto a napkin.
Oh if you could somehow make this thing float it could turn a propeller and it would look like an old Amphicar
Jim