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Blown Head Gasket?

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Old 12-27-2017, 05:43 AM   #31  
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Unless you are replacing the tappet cover for a leak you don't need to remove that. I personally would not replace the head bolts unless they appear stretched or the threads are damaged. You shouldn't need the valve stem retainers either. Is the head you have fully assembled?

As for the price, well, I don't know. I paid $111 for an upper head set for an Accent and that was my employee price so yeah, good gaskets aren't cheap but if you have the part number you can google search it and see if someone sells it cheaper.
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Old 12-27-2017, 06:25 AM   #32  
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When I replaced mine I got my gasket sets from this guy:
DIESEL PARTS PRICE PERFOMANCE
He was recommended by folks from here at the time. He was good at answering my questions too.
I just reused my headbolts. The gasket set had a gauge to measure them to make sure seems like.
Ditto on marking everything. I used card board and punched holes to keep the head bolts in order.
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Old 12-27-2017, 07:51 AM   #33  
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I was just concerned about the price of the head gasket set but checking around I have found Mahle and Victor Reinz for close to the same price.

Also at Cummins, they have everything in stock.

I got the head from Jim, the head has been surfaced and a valve job several years before it was taken off his running engine, everything looks good on it.

I will reuse my head bolts and if there is a problem, he also has a set I can get from him.

Thinking worst case scenario, can the pistons be removed with the engine still in the frame?

I an used to the luxury of an in-frame.

Jim
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Old 12-27-2017, 10:56 AM   #34  
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Yeah you can get the pistons out in-frame. The hardest part is getting the oil pan off and back on though. Although cleaning off that by now concrete pan gasket can be a real pain.
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Old 12-27-2017, 12:05 PM   #35  
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I was just concerned about the price of the head gasket set but checking around I have found Mahle and Victor Reinz for close to the same price.

Also at Cummins, they have everything in stock.

I got the head from Jim, the head has been surfaced and a valve job several years before it was taken off his running engine, everything looks good on it.

I will reuse my head bolts and if there is a problem, he also has a set I can get from him.

Thinking worst case scenario, can the pistons be removed with the engine still in the frame?

I an used to the luxury of an in-frame.

Jim
Jim my boys worked at CCP and used to bring these head bolt stretch gauges home. See if Cummins still has them! GW
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Old 12-27-2017, 01:06 PM   #36  
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Torque for the head bolts 59ftlb. is this correct?

I haven't done one for a long time, but I think I recall a different torque value for the longer bolts versus the shorter bolts, followed by a final 1/4 turn on all of them.

Also, I wondered if it might be worth swapping that #5 injector with another cylinder, then driving it for a while to see if the staining might follow the injector.
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Old 12-27-2017, 01:17 PM   #37  
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The head bolt stretch gauge will be included in the oem cummins gasket set. The head bolt torque is in a sequence of 3 steps 59ftlbs is not the final step.
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Old 12-27-2017, 05:08 PM   #38  
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Old 12-29-2017, 07:49 AM   #39  
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Anyone happen to know the socket size used on the head bolts,
Also the tap size and pitch to clean the threads?
Thanks guys.
Jim
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Old 12-30-2017, 12:39 PM   #40  
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Old 12-31-2017, 04:35 AM   #41  
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Dang, why are they so expensive? I just used a plain old tap from my kit.
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Old 12-31-2017, 07:02 AM   #42  
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So this turned into a "Well, thats not so bad" moment.

I kept going over this in my head for the last few days and it really was not what I thought, I was actually relieved, it could have been a lot worse.

When I took the exhaust manifold off,
I was expecting to see oil leaking from the exhaust on cylinder #5

But instead I see a dry exhaust port, no sign of any leaking oil.

But how is the oil getting on the side of the head?




But I did find that I am blowing lube oil out the back of my turbo, Now I can see why it is smoking,



My first clue was the big puddle of oil from my exhaust pipe.

I will probably have to change the oil in my muffler next.



Now I can see how the oil is leaking from the turbo and why it is smoking,
but how is the oil getting on the head and down the side of the block?
There does not appear to be any oil leaking externally from the side of the turbo where it could get on the engine.
And I can see it is not the valve guides.

So now, where can I find a decent turbo.
How difficult is it to rebuild, there is almost no side play in the compressor shaft.

I have a Holset dealer nearby where I can get parts.
Does the bearing and seal come as one assembly?



Jim
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Old 12-31-2017, 07:10 AM   #43  
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Now that you know you have oil in your exhaust, is the turbo to downpipe connection blowing the oil onto the block & head?
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Old 12-31-2017, 07:34 AM   #44  
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Doesn't seem to be, it is a fairly new Diamond Eye 4" downpipe and the v band clamp encloses the joint on the engine side, maybe the drain line though, I'll look at it today when I pull the head.
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Old 12-31-2017, 01:13 PM   #45  
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So now, where can I find a decent turbo.

How difficult is it to rebuild, there is almost no side play in the compressor shaft.

I have a Holset dealer nearby where I can get parts.
Does the bearing and seal come as one assembly?

Jim
You may have some luck with Noe at OCD if you don't go to your Holset dealer. Dodge Cummins Diesel Service & Repair - Orange County Diesel in HB

What is the shaft end to end play?

You can get a cartridge which is basically the center section of the turbo.
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