BHAF and pin grind
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Tijeras, New Mexico, 7,000ft up
BHAF and pin grind
OK, I got my BHAF from NAPA today and just put it on. I hated that K&N anyway. I have always had a the sinking feeling that the light oil residue coming off the K&N was coating the inside on my heat exchanger making it less efficient. I think I'm going to yank it and get it hot tanked.
I just have the filter laying in the space where the housing used to be for now until I build a mount for it. I saw reference to some mount plans on this site somewhere, but haven't been able to locate it.
Next is grinding down the tang in the pump, putting a thinner spacer under the power pin, grindig the pin, and adjusting the smoke setting so I am no gassing everyone like I am right now. It's embarrasing!
Question: How thin can I grind the bottom part of the pin and still maintain structural integrity on said pin?
I just have the filter laying in the space where the housing used to be for now until I build a mount for it. I saw reference to some mount plans on this site somewhere, but haven't been able to locate it.
Next is grinding down the tang in the pump, putting a thinner spacer under the power pin, grindig the pin, and adjusting the smoke setting so I am no gassing everyone like I am right now. It's embarrasing!
Question: How thin can I grind the bottom part of the pin and still maintain structural integrity on said pin?
As far as the filter, go to the tech section and there is a link to a member who has plans in his gallery I think it is bumpytruck.
As for your pin I think the biggest thing is that you don't want the rod in the pump coming out too far as it will leak.
As for your pin I think the biggest thing is that you don't want the rod in the pump coming out too far as it will leak.
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From: Tijeras, New Mexico, 7,000ft up
Looking at Ol Smokey's pin, it doesn't look possible for me to be able to grind the stock pin too much (other than grinding through it!) because Smoke has used a thicker piece of barstock so that he could grind past the centerline of the pin. Is there a spec on the max pin travel out there somewhere?
Ok, I see what your saying now, I have never really looked at Ol smokey's pin. I am sure that there is a spec out there somewhere, I think that you really just don't want the pin to come all the way out. But your right I wouldn't go grinding on the skinny part near the top too much.
I went almost half way through, about 2-3/64ths, and polished it up with the dremel. It seemed to add some power, but not as much as the old smokey for sure. I wouldnt grind too far at the top either.
Old smokey posted what he thought the max extension should be on here a while ago -- I asked him, and he was kind enough to respond, but I can't remember the number & don't have time to search right now. My l ater understanding, though, is that it can vary considerably from truck to truck, and some trucks with older seals on the guide pin will start leaking with the extended travel, but stop if the seal is replaced.
The key would be to pick up some hard stock that diameter and start from scratch, or try a phospher bronze stock which might wear better due to natural lubricity, and avoid the hardening process. I think that the smokey pin is machined and then hardened, but you can have QC problems with distortion of the part in the heat treating process.
The key would be to pick up some hard stock that diameter and start from scratch, or try a phospher bronze stock which might wear better due to natural lubricity, and avoid the hardening process. I think that the smokey pin is machined and then hardened, but you can have QC problems with distortion of the part in the heat treating process.
I was banned per my own request for speaking the name Pelosi
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From: Bristol Michigan
Mark, do something to secure it temporarily. I let mine float and it rubbed the headlight wires loose at the plug. Also had a burn on the paper. I could imagine injesting a bunch of burned paper and other garbage before I could react, if it caught fire.
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Mark - If you are concerned about your smoke now, don't grind on the big end of the fuel pin. You will have plenty of fuel at low boost with the ground AFC lever. As a matter of fact, if you think your truck is too smoky now, don't grind the lever. I can drive my truck cleanly, but I have to baby it off the line. I don't want you to think that a truck with POD's and a ground lever isn't going to smoke like a coal train if you get on it at low RPM.
On the pin - just grind a little on the skinny part. Stop before you think it's too thin.
On the pin - just grind a little on the skinny part. Stop before you think it's too thin.
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From: Tijeras, New Mexico, 7,000ft up
Ok, screw it. I'll just take it easy off the line. More power is much more important than smoke! If it's inevitable, I'm not going to worry about it.
I'm going to gring the pin to within an inch of it's life! (or a mm anyway). It's a new pump, so I think I can get away with major pin excursion.
I'm going to gring the pin to within an inch of it's life! (or a mm anyway). It's a new pump, so I think I can get away with major pin excursion.
I made my own similar to Old Smokey's pin, I didn't harden it the first time(made it from drill rod). When I took it out to make it shorter, I wanted less smoke at low boost (I've had people wait at a stop light and wait for the smoke to clear), it had a groove worn in it from the pin.
I hardened it this time, but I don't know how its holding up. I'll find out soon though 3200 spring is on the way.
The stock fuel pin is .470" in diameter.
I hardened it this time, but I don't know how its holding up. I'll find out soon though 3200 spring is on the way.
The stock fuel pin is .470" in diameter.
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