Aux fuse blocks, Need input
11-14-2008, 08:37 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Aux fuse blocks, Need input
I am looking to get a aux fuse block to aid in power distribution... But I am not the most electrical savy if you get my drift... I am looking at getting one from painless, do you think I should get one with all ignition hott circuts, or like 4 ign hott, and 3 constant hott... Here is a link to the one i'm looking at getting.. looking for this to power aux guages, trans cooler, trans lock up switch and od switch...And maybe more, but those are the necessities for now... Any input greatly appreciated...
http://www.painlessperformance.com/w...archAll=Trucks
http://www.painlessperformance.com/w...archAll=Trucks
11-14-2008, 09:33 PM
#2
alwaysonDTR
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i would want a some hot all the time spots for say a cigarrett lighter to charge my phone without leaveing my keys in the truck, one for switchable lights, but thats just me, there probally more.
11-14-2008, 09:38 PM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Ya..thats what I'm thinking... Just not sure if 7 circuts will be enough... I would like to just do it once... looks like tha tone gives me 3 constant hott, 4 ignition hott... The thing is, it will never be enough im sure...
11-14-2008, 10:45 PM
#4
Registered User
Those Painless units are WAY overpriced and not nearly as painless to install as they would lead you to believe.
A smart man like you can do much better for a lot less.
I have a relay-triggered key-hot panel and a bejillion always-hot auxilliary fuse-blocks scattered around my truck; if I can do it, I have no doubt that you can.
I recently added a brain-box to control the multi-tude of turn-signals on my truck, each direction dual-relay triggered and every seperate bulb fused, such that a short anywhere only loses the one light.
A smart man like you can do much better for a lot less.
I have a relay-triggered key-hot panel and a bejillion always-hot auxilliary fuse-blocks scattered around my truck; if I can do it, I have no doubt that you can.
I recently added a brain-box to control the multi-tude of turn-signals on my truck, each direction dual-relay triggered and every seperate bulb fused, such that a short anywhere only loses the one light.
11-14-2008, 11:48 PM
#5
Registered User
These are my favorite type of fuse-block :
http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servl...d=10960&page=1
Reasons being :
There is one big 8AWG feed-wire that is already pre-wired to all of the fuses.
Each fuse has its own SCREW-TERMINAL, such that a lot of tedious wiring/soldering is avoided.
SCREW-TERMINALs with RING-TERMINALs on the wire-ends are the most positive means of good electrical contact, with the most surface area contact.
Since the fuses each have their own screw-terminal, the fuses are not "hard-wired" to the accessories, making any future alterations easily accomplished with only a screw-driver.
Lately, I try to use as many screw-terminal blocks in my circuits as possible, eliminating many hard-wired circuits that are so hard to trouble-shoot at a later time.
For example:
I ran a wire from the marker-light switch to a terminal-block, such that switch-ON makes all the screws HOT; then, each seperate group of marker-lights has it's own wire that gets attached to this terminal-block.
Such as:
Front markers--rear markers--head-rack markers--left running-board markers--left flat-bed markers--etc.--etc.
I can add or remove light circuits at the terminal block, without the need to cut wires.
http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servl...d=10960&page=1
Reasons being :
There is one big 8AWG feed-wire that is already pre-wired to all of the fuses.
Each fuse has its own SCREW-TERMINAL, such that a lot of tedious wiring/soldering is avoided.
SCREW-TERMINALs with RING-TERMINALs on the wire-ends are the most positive means of good electrical contact, with the most surface area contact.
Since the fuses each have their own screw-terminal, the fuses are not "hard-wired" to the accessories, making any future alterations easily accomplished with only a screw-driver.
Lately, I try to use as many screw-terminal blocks in my circuits as possible, eliminating many hard-wired circuits that are so hard to trouble-shoot at a later time.
For example:
I ran a wire from the marker-light switch to a terminal-block, such that switch-ON makes all the screws HOT; then, each seperate group of marker-lights has it's own wire that gets attached to this terminal-block.
Such as:
Front markers--rear markers--head-rack markers--left running-board markers--left flat-bed markers--etc.--etc.
I can add or remove light circuits at the terminal block, without the need to cut wires.
11-15-2008, 07:40 AM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
These are my favorite type of fuse-block :
http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servl...d=10960&page=1
Reasons being :
There is one big 8AWG feed-wire that is already pre-wired to all of the fuses.
Each fuse has its own SCREW-TERMINAL, such that a lot of tedious wiring/soldering is avoided.
SCREW-TERMINALs with RING-TERMINALs on the wire-ends are the most positive means of good electrical contact, with the most surface area contact.
Since the fuses each have their own screw-terminal, the fuses are not "hard-wired" to the accessories, making any future alterations easily accomplished with only a screw-driver.
Lately, I try to use as many screw-terminal blocks in my circuits as possible, eliminating many hard-wired circuits that are so hard to trouble-shoot at a later time.
For example:
I ran a wire from the marker-light switch to a terminal-block, such that switch-ON makes all the screws HOT; then, each seperate group of marker-lights has it's own wire that gets attached to this terminal-block.
Such as:
Front markers--rear markers--head-rack markers--left running-board markers--left flat-bed markers--etc.--etc.
I can add or remove light circuits at the terminal block, without the need to cut wires.
http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servl...d=10960&page=1
Reasons being :
There is one big 8AWG feed-wire that is already pre-wired to all of the fuses.
Each fuse has its own SCREW-TERMINAL, such that a lot of tedious wiring/soldering is avoided.
SCREW-TERMINALs with RING-TERMINALs on the wire-ends are the most positive means of good electrical contact, with the most surface area contact.
Since the fuses each have their own screw-terminal, the fuses are not "hard-wired" to the accessories, making any future alterations easily accomplished with only a screw-driver.
Lately, I try to use as many screw-terminal blocks in my circuits as possible, eliminating many hard-wired circuits that are so hard to trouble-shoot at a later time.
For example:
I ran a wire from the marker-light switch to a terminal-block, such that switch-ON makes all the screws HOT; then, each seperate group of marker-lights has it's own wire that gets attached to this terminal-block.
Such as:
Front markers--rear markers--head-rack markers--left running-board markers--left flat-bed markers--etc.--etc.
I can add or remove light circuits at the terminal block, without the need to cut wires.
That is much better, I didn't want all those wires that comes with the painless one.... plus it was only rated for 30amp...Thanks for the lead!!
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11-15-2008, 04:36 PM
#8
Chapter President
These are my favorite type of fuse-block :
http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servl...d=10960&page=1
http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servl...d=10960&page=1
i have been looking for something like that all i could ever find was what DNRcustoms had posted.
11-16-2008, 12:31 PM
#9
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Cresson/Stephenville Texas
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I picked up a fuse block from oreillys and wired it ignition on hot and stuck it behind the glove box. 6 or 8 circuits on this one. Gonna add another alltime hot when I need more.
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