Douglas2

Look on the Bright Side; you're now so practiced it'll only take a few minutes. how's your rear main seal holding out? no need to go in there a fifth time...heh-heh-heh.
cheers,
Douglas

Subliminal

I replaced it the second time I was in there.

It's true. The initial swap took me forever. The first time I re-pulled it it took me a weekend. This last time it was about 5 hrs from pulling the driveshaft to putting it back in.

This time I'm hoping for 4.

Actually, maybe not...wanna make sure everything is right this time!

u.s mma

i have the stock replacement valair, supposed to be good to 300hp, we'll see about that. seems like a decent clutch. doesn't come with a pilot bearing though.

Subliminal

Well, Phoenix Friction made good on their promise:





The Luk setup is on the left, the new Sachs is on the right.

Subliminal

Ok, I guess I have 2 questions for you all here:

1. Has anyone seen a pilot bushing like the one in the bottom picture (in the bag). It has a lip on one end. I've seen a few, but never one with a lip.

2. My flywheel. I don't really want to remove it to have it resurfaced...is there anything I can do to nice it up a bit? It was just resurfaced a few months back.

Crossy's son

a DA sander would do the trick ...if you have one.

And whats the part number on that clutch and where is this place located? just picked up a 1st gen that needs a clutch and really wanna put a new factory Sachs in it and that's definely it!!

See how much more clutch material is there than the LUK disc? It takes up the whole flywheel which is awesome.

the weird part is they're both cast pressure plates which is cool .

Anyways that clutch you got looks like a legit factory Sachs clutch which are great....i want one

Subliminal

This is the place:
http://www.phoenixfriction.com/

They're in Middlesex, kind of by Bridgewater/Bound Brook.

However, they called Sachs directly, ordered it for me, Sachs shipped it directly to me, and told them it was the last one they had in their warehouse.

Crossy's son

that blows. this is what i hate about the sachs clutch it's so good but impossible to find.

Subliminal

Well, you might try giving them a call anyway. Ask for Lou...he's awesome.

Subliminal

Whelp. I lined up some help to arrive at 9am tomorrow and we're gunna do this thing. Fix the clutch, fix the dipstick tube...heck I might even finally replace that gas pedal that's been wobbling side to side since I got this truck!

Douglas2

hey-Hey!!!,
Nice score on the OE Sachs. I like that evidence of the induction hardening on its fingers that the Luk lacks. I am quite glad I didn't have an issue like you did on your Luk; I got the HO 13"-er and hope yours works as well as it does.

I guess it is time to start working up the IC now that everything is in place...though I suspect I'll get re-acquainted with the driveshaft for U-joint replacement at some point.

On the flywheel re-surfacing, if the Luk didn't chatter the Sachs should behave itself too.
cheers,
Douglas

Subliminal

I guess I'm just worried about whatever slippage might have occurred with the oe clutch that slips.

Douglas2

I see...so you are approaching my level of paranoia about having to do the job again if something goes wrong. I'd try to line up a shop to grind it( and keep the barley pop away from the help until you're done ).
cheers,
Douglas

Subliminal

Ha...not really an option for today...but maybe for the 5th time it will be.

BTW, it does not look inviting out there at all today.

It's 17 out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GlN3oEjMpUQ

Subliminal

Whew, good times, I tell ya!

So, it took me and my cousin roughly 4 hours to do the clutch. I had borrowed a dial indicator to get the flywheel set where I wanted it a week or two ago, so I didn't want to pull the flywheel off, so I ended up using my 5 month old pilot bushing, but it looked totally fine, barely even worn.

The Sachs set went on, with a lil loctite, and everything went together well.

Started it up and no vibration, drove it and no slippage...life is good!

Then we attacked the broken dipstick tube. What a pain. Of course the starter had to come back off, which isn't that big of a deal, but the metal piece that secures the plastic dipstick tube to the block was a bear to get out. We were going to drive it through and bring it out with the oil, but decided against it. Instead we ended up threading a bolt into it (soft metal) and prying it out of the hole...just took a while to get the right bolt. We made a puller, much akin to the famous injector puller, but it didn't hold well enough.

At any rate...a day's work, that's for sure!