Am I missing something, or is this a good "plan"
04-26-2006, 09:37 PM
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OK...just to keep adding to the post...
I have the H1C...but looking for a 12cm wastegated housing...found a couple from HX35's, so I've been reading a bit...
I see comments about the sound of the HX35, but would using just the turbine housing make the sound change, or would I only get that if I bought an entire HX35?
I see the HX35 will only take the Stage III, but with backing plate modification, you can fit the Stage IV on a H1C or WH1C...which situation will I be in if I swap the HX35 turbine housing on it?
As I understand it, I'll need some type of coupler to connect the HX35 to the crossover, but everything else will bolt in...I also read that you can port the HX35 some, but where exactly are you porting?
I also read that I'll have to move the DP ~1.5"...is that towards the front, or towards the rear? how do you "move" it? basically remount it, or can you literally just push/pry it 1.5"?
Would it make sense (and physically work) to swap a 12cm WG turbine housing from a HX35, plus a Stage III compressor housing from HTT, onto my H1C?
I found this:
it mentions moving the DP "back", but I'd just like a little more explanation...
what is considered "heavy" tow? I pull ~6,000 whenever I take my Jeep wheelin', which is about once a month...and the rest would be around town driving...
would the 12cm/Stage III combo, plus some porting (once I figure out where and how much), plus drilling the hole to vent all 6 cylinders, be a good decision?
also...found this:
1. we've addressed the DP (just waiting on an answer)
2. not sure what MWE is...but since I have a 5-speed, does the Stage III HTT address whatever the issue is?
OK...that should keep a couple of you busy for a minute...
Thanks.
Greg
I have the H1C...but looking for a 12cm wastegated housing...found a couple from HX35's, so I've been reading a bit...
I see comments about the sound of the HX35, but would using just the turbine housing make the sound change, or would I only get that if I bought an entire HX35?
I see the HX35 will only take the Stage III, but with backing plate modification, you can fit the Stage IV on a H1C or WH1C...which situation will I be in if I swap the HX35 turbine housing on it?
As I understand it, I'll need some type of coupler to connect the HX35 to the crossover, but everything else will bolt in...I also read that you can port the HX35 some, but where exactly are you porting?
I also read that I'll have to move the DP ~1.5"...is that towards the front, or towards the rear? how do you "move" it? basically remount it, or can you literally just push/pry it 1.5"?
Would it make sense (and physically work) to swap a 12cm WG turbine housing from a HX35, plus a Stage III compressor housing from HTT, onto my H1C?
I found this:
Originally Posted by wannadiesel
To make it work just move the downpipe back about 1.5". The 2nd gen downpipe will not clear the passenger footwell, it comes back too far.
Is it what you want to do? Well, that depends on what you use the truck for. For a 5 speed truck that gets driven in traffic a lot, it's hard to beat an HX-35/12 for instant spoolup. You will love it if that's your main use for the truck. If you're towing some, you will still appreciate the spoolup, but you may find the 12 cm restrictive on the top end. This can be alleviated somewhat by aggressive porting. If this is a heavy tow/high speed highway rig, I would encourage you to get an HTT stage III compressor kit instead, and keep the 18.5 cm housing.
Is it what you want to do? Well, that depends on what you use the truck for. For a 5 speed truck that gets driven in traffic a lot, it's hard to beat an HX-35/12 for instant spoolup. You will love it if that's your main use for the truck. If you're towing some, you will still appreciate the spoolup, but you may find the 12 cm restrictive on the top end. This can be alleviated somewhat by aggressive porting. If this is a heavy tow/high speed highway rig, I would encourage you to get an HTT stage III compressor kit instead, and keep the 18.5 cm housing.
what is considered "heavy" tow? I pull ~6,000 whenever I take my Jeep wheelin', which is about once a month...and the rest would be around town driving...
would the 12cm/Stage III combo, plus some porting (once I figure out where and how much), plus drilling the hole to vent all 6 cylinders, be a good decision?
also...found this:
Originally Posted by wannadiesel
The two drawbacks to a 12 cm housing on a 1st gen are: 1. You have to move/shorten the downpipe. A lot of people want bolt-on.
2. If you have a 5 speed you really need a compressor side with MWE like an HX-35 or a WH1C. This drives up the cost, although MWE can be a DIY project if you have access to a big enough lathe.
2. If you have a 5 speed you really need a compressor side with MWE like an HX-35 or a WH1C. This drives up the cost, although MWE can be a DIY project if you have access to a big enough lathe.
2. not sure what MWE is...but since I have a 5-speed, does the Stage III HTT address whatever the issue is?
OK...that should keep a couple of you busy for a minute...
Thanks.
Greg
04-26-2006, 09:43 PM
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I think I found part of the answer...
Thanks.
Greg
Originally Posted by G1625S
Moving along...I thought I'd tear the divider out of the 12cm, but I just didn't have enough daylight to work with. Instead, I port matched the 12cm to the metal gasket. I'll be the first to say I'm no expert, but that casting leaves a LOT to be desired from an airflow standpoint! There was an easy 1/8'' of material before the gasket all the way around the housing. I marked the offending material with a sharpie and got to grinding and blending..and grinding and blending...and grinding and blending..and... 
I could have cast a couple powerstroke connecting rods with the pile of filings I had 
. Now personally, I don't consider the 12cm spooled untill it's over 12psi..it seems you've got 10psi just idling Anyway, from 10psi on, what a HUGE difference in the amount of fuel it takes to go from 10 to say, 25psi. Just the slightest tap sends the boost gauge (from 8-10psi) smoothly and quickly up to 20-25psi. Where before, I'd get a black puff and a surge, now there's no puff and the power increase is seamless and the truck feels like it runs 'easier', if that makes any sense.
I could have cast a couple powerstroke connecting rods with the pile of filings I had . Now personally, I don't consider the 12cm spooled untill it's over 12psi..it seems you've got 10psi just idling Anyway, from 10psi on, what a HUGE difference in the amount of fuel it takes to go from 10 to say, 25psi. Just the slightest tap sends the boost gauge (from 8-10psi) smoothly and quickly up to 20-25psi. Where before, I'd get a black puff and a surge, now there's no puff and the power increase is seamless and the truck feels like it runs 'easier', if that makes any sense.Thanks.
Greg
04-27-2006, 06:08 AM
#35
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Originally Posted by BigWaylon
OK...just to keep adding to the post...
I have the H1C...but looking for a 12cm wastegated housing...found a couple from HX35's, so I've been reading a bit...
I see comments about the sound of the HX35, but would using just the turbine housing make the sound change, or would I only get that if I bought an entire HX35?
The 35 will have a louder sound under boost due to the MWE slots, which we'll get to. The 12cm alone will keep the turbo spinning fast enough at idle to get a nice whistle out the taile pipe---really sends the cool factor throught the roof
I see the HX35 will only take the Stage III, but with backing plate modification, you can fit the Stage IV on a H1C or WH1C...which situation will I be in if I swap the HX35 turbine housing on it?
The turbine housing does not effect your ability to 'stage IV' your current H1C. No worries.
As I understand it, I'll need some type of coupler to connect the HX35 to the crossover, but everything else will bolt in...I also read that you can port the HX35 some, but where exactly are you porting?
The porting is done on the 12cm turbine housing itself. There's a lot of extra material there If even a novice like myself can make an improvement, anbody can.
I also read that I'll have to move the DP ~1.5"...is that towards the front, or towards the rear? how do you "move" it? basically remount it, or can you literally just push/pry it 1.5"?
You may have to loosen all the clamps in the system, but generally, a good shove will git 'er done.
Would it make sense (and physically work) to swap a 12cm WG turbine housing from a HX35, plus a Stage III compressor housing from HTT, onto my H1C?
That's exactly what I've done
I found this:
it mentions moving the DP "back", but I'd just like a little more explanation...
The 12cm housing is physically longer than the 18 that's on there. The whole exhaust system has to go backwards a little bit to allow room for the longer 12cm housing. The addition of a wastegate is what makes the 12 longer.
what is considered "heavy" tow? I pull ~6,000 whenever I take my Jeep wheelin', which is about once a month...and the rest would be around town driving...
6k is not real heavy for these trucks. Double or triple that number and now you're huffing some weight around
would the 12cm/Stage III combo, plus some porting (once I figure out where and how much), plus drilling the hole to vent all 6 cylinders, be a good decision?
Again, that's getting closer to my setup and I love it
also...found this:
1. we've addressed the DP (just waiting on an answer)
2. not sure what MWE is...but since I have a 5-speed, does the Stage III HTT address whatever the issue is?
MWE slots-Map Width Enhancement slots. On WH1C's and HX35's (and virtually every aftermarket upgrade) there's some material cut from the compressor housing to allow excess boost to bleed back though to the air filter side of the compressor. This excess boost occurs under heavy loading at low rpm--ie, stomp the loud pedal in 4th at 30 mph. Generally, on a stock truck, this is not a problem, but when you begin cranking the fuel up, the turbo can spool so quickly that is creates more air volume than the engine can take in. With no place else to go, the air is forced back against the compressor wheel. This puts a ton of stress on the shaft of the turbo and con produce the 'bark' many people speak of. The MWE slots allow this excess boost to slip by without harming the turbo, allowing you to safely use more power down low. Search 'turbo bark' and you'll reand more than you ever wanted to know. As an aside, I was never able to bark my little H1C. I don't think they ever push enough air to let things get backed up
OK...that should keep a couple of you busy for a minute...
Thanks.
Greg
I have the H1C...but looking for a 12cm wastegated housing...found a couple from HX35's, so I've been reading a bit...
I see comments about the sound of the HX35, but would using just the turbine housing make the sound change, or would I only get that if I bought an entire HX35?
The 35 will have a louder sound under boost due to the MWE slots, which we'll get to. The 12cm alone will keep the turbo spinning fast enough at idle to get a nice whistle out the taile pipe---really sends the cool factor throught the roof
I see the HX35 will only take the Stage III, but with backing plate modification, you can fit the Stage IV on a H1C or WH1C...which situation will I be in if I swap the HX35 turbine housing on it?
The turbine housing does not effect your ability to 'stage IV' your current H1C. No worries.
As I understand it, I'll need some type of coupler to connect the HX35 to the crossover, but everything else will bolt in...I also read that you can port the HX35 some, but where exactly are you porting?
The porting is done on the 12cm turbine housing itself. There's a lot of extra material there If even a novice like myself can make an improvement, anbody can.
I also read that I'll have to move the DP ~1.5"...is that towards the front, or towards the rear? how do you "move" it? basically remount it, or can you literally just push/pry it 1.5"?
You may have to loosen all the clamps in the system, but generally, a good shove will git 'er done.
Would it make sense (and physically work) to swap a 12cm WG turbine housing from a HX35, plus a Stage III compressor housing from HTT, onto my H1C?
That's exactly what I've done
I found this:
it mentions moving the DP "back", but I'd just like a little more explanation...
The 12cm housing is physically longer than the 18 that's on there. The whole exhaust system has to go backwards a little bit to allow room for the longer 12cm housing. The addition of a wastegate is what makes the 12 longer.
what is considered "heavy" tow? I pull ~6,000 whenever I take my Jeep wheelin', which is about once a month...and the rest would be around town driving...
6k is not real heavy for these trucks. Double or triple that number and now you're huffing some weight around
would the 12cm/Stage III combo, plus some porting (once I figure out where and how much), plus drilling the hole to vent all 6 cylinders, be a good decision?
Again, that's getting closer to my setup and I love it
also...found this:
1. we've addressed the DP (just waiting on an answer)
2. not sure what MWE is...but since I have a 5-speed, does the Stage III HTT address whatever the issue is?
MWE slots-Map Width Enhancement slots. On WH1C's and HX35's (and virtually every aftermarket upgrade) there's some material cut from the compressor housing to allow excess boost to bleed back though to the air filter side of the compressor. This excess boost occurs under heavy loading at low rpm--ie, stomp the loud pedal in 4th at 30 mph. Generally, on a stock truck, this is not a problem, but when you begin cranking the fuel up, the turbo can spool so quickly that is creates more air volume than the engine can take in. With no place else to go, the air is forced back against the compressor wheel. This puts a ton of stress on the shaft of the turbo and con produce the 'bark' many people speak of. The MWE slots allow this excess boost to slip by without harming the turbo, allowing you to safely use more power down low. Search 'turbo bark' and you'll reand more than you ever wanted to know. As an aside, I was never able to bark my little H1C. I don't think they ever push enough air to let things get backed up
OK...that should keep a couple of you busy for a minute...
Thanks.
Greg
04-27-2006, 06:17 AM
#36
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great info...
it's about to all get pieced together...
the one (yeah, right) thing I meant to add, but typed so much I forgot, was about the wg...
I see people adding acuators, controllers, etc...if I found an HX35 advertised with actuator, is there something else I'd need? I'm guessing you can buy different PSI rated actuators or maybe adjustable controls?
Thanks.
Greg
it's about to all get pieced together...
the one (yeah, right) thing I meant to add, but typed so much I forgot, was about the wg...
I see people adding acuators, controllers, etc...if I found an HX35 advertised with actuator, is there something else I'd need? I'm guessing you can buy different PSI rated actuators or maybe adjustable controls?
Thanks.
Greg
04-27-2006, 06:32 AM
#37
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A stock actuator with an inline boost controller is the way to go. Wannadiesel got one on e-bay, so hopefully he'll pipe in since I can't remember what seller he bought from. I have the 'turbo master' boost controller. It's easily adjustable, but not really appropriate for a BOMBed truck.
04-27-2006, 11:32 AM
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just got off the phone with Brandon at HTT...I didn't know enough to ask the right question, so I'll ask here...
I know some of you are running the Stage II or III on the non-IC motors...he said something about an adapter and a v-flange, but I wasn't too clear on what he was saying...
If I go with the Stage III, it'll have a 4" opening for me to make a full 4" intake tube to my BHAF, right?
the adapter he's talking about is on the output side to the crossover pipe? just like a silicone adapter or something?
or is it where the compressor attaches to the turbo?
is it safe to just buy the one for the IC motor and know it's not hard or expensive to adapt?
BTW...working on designing a better crossover with one of the other members here...ought to be sweet when it's done...
Greg
I know some of you are running the Stage II or III on the non-IC motors...he said something about an adapter and a v-flange, but I wasn't too clear on what he was saying...
If I go with the Stage III, it'll have a 4" opening for me to make a full 4" intake tube to my BHAF, right?
the adapter he's talking about is on the output side to the crossover pipe? just like a silicone adapter or something?
or is it where the compressor attaches to the turbo?
is it safe to just buy the one for the IC motor and know it's not hard or expensive to adapt?
BTW...working on designing a better crossover with one of the other members here...ought to be sweet when it's done...
Greg
04-27-2006, 12:51 PM
#39
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Originally Posted by BigWaylon
just got off the phone with Brandon at HTT...I didn't know enough to ask the right question, so I'll ask here...
I know some of you are running the Stage II or III on the non-IC motors...he said something about an adapter and a v-flange, but I wasn't too clear on what he was saying...
If I go with the Stage III, it'll have a 4" opening for me to make a full 4" intake tube to my BHAF, right?
the adapter he's talking about is on the output side to the crossover pipe? just like a silicone adapter or something?
or is it where the compressor attaches to the turbo?
is it safe to just buy the one for the IC motor and know it's not hard or expensive to adapt?
BTW...working on designing a better crossover with one of the other members here...ought to be sweet when it's done...
Greg
I know some of you are running the Stage II or III on the non-IC motors...he said something about an adapter and a v-flange, but I wasn't too clear on what he was saying...
If I go with the Stage III, it'll have a 4" opening for me to make a full 4" intake tube to my BHAF, right?
the adapter he's talking about is on the output side to the crossover pipe? just like a silicone adapter or something?
or is it where the compressor attaches to the turbo?
is it safe to just buy the one for the IC motor and know it's not hard or expensive to adapt?
BTW...working on designing a better crossover with one of the other members here...ought to be sweet when it's done...
Greg
I ground mine because it was the quickest and cheapest way to do it and I only had $150 invested in the WH1C anyway.
Edwin
04-27-2006, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by edwinsmith
If you could get hold of one of the IC tubes that attaches to the compressor V-band flange and make your pipe similar it would eliminate the need to grind the flange off the the compressor and you could use the v-band clamp and seal instead.
I ground mine because it was the quickest and cheapest way to do it and I only had $150 invested in the WH1C anyway.
Edwin
I ground mine because it was the quickest and cheapest way to do it and I only had $150 invested in the WH1C anyway.
Edwin
so he was talking about the piece you and I were discussing?
it'll bolt up just fine, I'll gain a 4" intake side, and I just need to grind the flange and buy the silicon fitting?
if so...I'm gonna call him right now...
Greg
04-27-2006, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by edwinsmith
If you could get hold of one of the IC tubes that attaches to the compressor V-band flange and make your pipe similar it would eliminate the need to grind the flange off the the compressor and you could use the v-band clamp and seal instead.
I ground mine because it was the quickest and cheapest way to do it and I only had $150 invested in the WH1C anyway.
Edwin
I ground mine because it was the quickest and cheapest way to do it and I only had $150 invested in the WH1C anyway.
Edwin
Is there any danger in damaging the housing if you use a plasma cutter?
wasn't sure if that amount of heat applied (although it would be for a short amount of time) would be an issue...
Thanks.
Greg
04-27-2006, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by wannadiesel
My manual boost controller is from Lower Shores Performance. Works well.
this the ticket?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...Pr4_PcY_BIN_IT
Greg