wannadiesel

Looks pretty. How's it run now that you got to put some boost to it?

BigWaylon

runs pretty good...still roughly the same boost, though...

not sure of towing EGT's...it was fine around town beforehand...and my 4" DP from Stan's is due here on 10/3...

I do have a question, though...based on a post you made in another topic:


is that the same "check" I need to do with the high idle screw?

...cause mine maxes at around 76-78MPH with 3.55's...

this is obviously done with the motor not running, right? just a physical check of the linkage?

Greg

wannadiesel

Yes. The engine does not need to be running. You won't hurt anything, but it's hard to concentrate with the Cummins screaming away at 3000 RPM .

BigWaylon

hmmm...maybe I'll get out the video camera and put in on YouTube if I try it with the engine running...

cause with no exhaust beyond the current DP, it's REALLY loud...

Greg

Ace

Mine gets up to an indicated 90. Way more than I need. Scary. Did it one time, just to see.

BigWaylon

OK...picture time...

first...the throttle linkage adjustment...

looking at this pic I took:



I assumed the bottom half of the bracket on the left, would make contact at full pedal with the screw on the right...correct?

so when I floored it (yes, with the motor OFF)...it did touch:



you could take the linkage and move it maybe 1/8" total to make it a little tighter, but contact was made with the screw...


was I checking the right spot? it maxes between 75 and 80 with 3.55 gears...


another thing I noticed...which shouldn't effect top speed, but may make my idle change a bit...when looking down through the bracket pictured above, there's a small pin...

is it supposed to be "connected" or "enclosed" by something on the bracket?

when pulled tight, it made contact, but when you let off the accelerator (is it still called a gas pedal if you're working on a diesel?) it had a very small gap between the pin and the bracket, like this:




also...looked at the pump and sprayed enough brake cleaner to see the timing marks:



definitely appears to be in the stock location...

I see the bolt next to the mark, and the one on the top near the motor...I'm guessing the third one (the hard one) is in a position to make the three form somewhat of a triangle?

I want to advance it my making the mark on the pump go higher than the other mark, right?

does the whole pump pivot in place? just wondering how it moves, and how it tightens back in place...

I know wannadiesel said he loosens the pump and retards it all the way when doing the spring install...to give more room to work...I just wasn't sure how far it moved...I'm guessing I just loosen the three screws, but not remove them, in order for the pump to stay attached?

Thanks.
Greg

flashgordon

You need a S wrench or the cummin spec wrench(S wrench you can get from harbor fraight!)to get to the bottom bolt.

there is [B]4 bolt![/B]..The last on is at the back of the pump,there as a sapport or bracket at the back of the pump. all 4 will need to be loosend to get the pump to move!

NOTE: it will still take some effort to move the pump!

Ace

What I found on my throttle lever was the lever actually started hitting the fuel line on the top/back side after I threaded that stop bolt out. So I dremel's off some of the lever so it did not hit the fuel line until it moved all the way (internally?), then backed the adjuster bolt back in to stop it just a thread or so before that. Does that sound right?

BigWaylon

I understand what you're saying...but want to make sure which line you're talking about...

is it the hard line that actually shows up in the picture at the top? and then almost looks like the bracket hits it in the second picture as is rotates?

Greg

G1625S

Yup....


Am I the only one not seeing a breakover spring? I've had a couple diet Budweisers, so I'm not gonna say for sure....

g

Ace

Yep that's it. It got at least another quarter inch more travel after doing that, and I've heard some here say they don't even have the high idle stop screw in use or even installed there anymore. Just being conservative, didn't want to go too far and mess something up.

BigWaylon

If I knew what a breakover spring was...I'd try to answer it for you...



G1625S posted earlier:

not exactly. the high idle stop is just that---it's there to stop the linkage. If the linkage doesn't hit the stop, you need to look for slack in the linkage starting at the pedal and try to maximize the 'throw' created by going WOT with the pedal. Usually, a couple turns of the turnbuckle near the pump will suck a lot of the slop out of the system.

which sounds like adjusting the high idle stop is a no-no...is there any reason to turn it in just a turn or two and get a little more throttle out of it? and just let the hard line Ace was referring to be the actual stop?

Greg

G1625S

Ok, here's a normal linkage setup...looks like Greg's got something missing, yeah? (I know this greg (me) has a lot missing, but that's another story...)

edit, oddly, Greg's pics look 'factory'....

BigWaylon

where is it missing?

the spring in your pic where you have a torx bolt? and I have a hex bolt? on the end of the bracket we've been talking about?

do you have the spring on the top left of this pic?




Greg

wannadiesel

It looks good, Greg. Back that high idle screw out as far as you wan, won't hurt anything and will give you a little more top speed. I wouldn't let the hard line be the throttle stop, you can grind on the throttle arm to get more travel.

For real fun, switch the return spring and ball stud locations on the throttle arm. I did that on mine (I have a non-intercooled pump top on mine now) and it made getting full travel ridiculously easy.

On the timing questions: make sure you remove the banjo bolt from the AFC line, that will hold the pump in place. The AFC moves about 2 inches from full advance to full retard. If you pull that slimy nut by your timing mark off, you will be able to see the slot. When you are ready to move the pump, get all 3 nuts and the rear support bolt loose enough that you can turn them with your fingers. You don't need to remove them.

Put down the barley pop and look at this pic again, Greg (the one from New York). You can clearly see the breakover spring.


Yes, the breakover spring is what does that. You can see the two arms of it on each side of the pin. It's there to protect the throttle shaft bushing in case the linkage is misadjusted. It's a pretty strong spring, but if you adjust the high idle in and play with the linkage you'll be able to see it work.