Well, against my better non-intercooled judgement, I ground the afc foot while sliding my 366 spring into my new pump this morning. So much for the Bosch 1 year warantee...hey, I made it almost two months! Truthfully, the pump was not as cleaned up as I had hoped, considering it was a Bosch certified rebuild, but it doesn't matter now, I guess There was an anti-tamper wire/lead stamp on the high idle screw that had to go in order to get the afc allen out. Also, while the full boogie screw was out, I removed the lock collar---without damaging it, of all things. To reset the boogie screw, I just held the collar next to it till it looked right. I think it's out a bit, but it really doesn't matter cause grinding the foot made my truck MOVE! I've only got about 20 miles on it now--my cruise temps are only a bit higher and of course, there's a black cloud waiting under my right foot The 12cm is naturally too small now, but it does a fair job of cleaning up the smoke. My next move (which will have to be soon) is going to be HTT stage III compressor housing and back to the old 18 turbine housing. I kinda miss the lag...smokesmokesmokesmokezooooooooooommmmmmmmm
So, I'm psyched, but I don't think the getrag or my tires feel the same way...nevermind the poor clutch

greg

 

fun aint it, now that i got mine up and smoking. im all

 

Hey fear, do you have any boost numbers yet with the new compressor? Do you have any pics of it?

 

G1625S, so it make alot more power with the foot gone huh? I may have something to do today after all. I wonder when the tranny is going to let me know it doesnt like the power.

 

Greg, the clutch will be fine with the stock injectors, mine was holding fine with POD's and water/meth. Probably 300/750 for dyno numbers. You may find that the Stage III crams enough air in there to keep EGT in control with the 12 cm.

That ground lever and 3200 RPM spring really wakes the truck up. You only need your big toe to drive now.

pwrtripls1 - As long as you stick to the stock injectors I think the trans will survive. Once the POD's go in you are living on borrowed time, especially if you try to tow something.

 

Well, had a chance to put a few miles on this afternoon and I'm really pleased. Cruise egt's on flat ground barely changed at all. Cruise on a grade went up a fair amount, but with all the room for that rack to roam up to the afc arm, I'm not surprised I hit my test grade and temps were up by 50-75 degrees. The grade is only 3/4 mile, but it's easily 12%. I hit the bottom at 62 in 4th about 2400 rpms and 20 psi. Held 20psi and 62 all the way up and ran to 700 post, give or take. Pretty much the same as before, but when I was almost to the top, I wound her up to 2800 (still pulling hard ) and grabbed 5th and just took off! Loved it, and 4 seconds later I was running for 900 post and 85 mph still on a 3% grade. Not too bad, I think. The foot's gotta be worth 35 hp and whatever torque comes with it, I'd think. The H1C leaves a pretty dark haze at 30 psi now...HTT here I come

greg


edit: for the non-ic folks on the fence about this mod---DO IT! Keep your foot in it long enough, you can melt down anything. Just watch the gauges and know you can't hammer it as long as the i/c folks

g

 

hey wanna... i'm running an auto as well.... do you think the tranny "should" hold with 3200 spring, afc and some screws truned, and an HTT III with either 21cm or 16cm housing?

 

Yeah as long as you're not towing and the trans was healthy to begin with it will hold stock injectors.

 

as far as towing... what kind of weight are you talking about? i don't usually tow lots of weight, but if i did would there be something easy to change so that i could tow?

 

I'd recommend doing a valve body and torque converter. With the non-lockup converters in these trucks, there is a lot of heat generated when towing. Adding more power only makes it worse. The aftermarket converters stall at a lower RPM so they make less heat. A valve body will firm up the shifts and increase the pressure holding the clutches.

 

i've seen the TC's at like $800-$1000+ is there really that big of a difference between them and and stock replacement (like $80) ? also i am trying to hold the tranny replacement off as long as possible...

 

on boost im runnin 30+ dont know for sure cant find a cheap gague. And i dont have a pic of it, i should have got one today but i was too busy snaping smoke pics ill get one for ya.

 

An el cheapo oil pressure gauge from the local auto parts store will read to 100 psi.

 

Stock replacement will not help. The problem with the stock replacement is its high stall speed - which gets higher as you add more torque. That high stall speed makes a lot of heat, especially when towing - and heat will kill your trans. 1st gen converters are not that expensive since they are not lockup units, you won't be paying $800.

 

True, but the stockers help build boost and jump of the line. There is nothing like neck snapping 4 hi launches when your lined up next to a ricer with a 3 foot wing on the back.