Hi all, just installed a brand new brake master cyclinder and I'm having a hard time with bleading the brakes. Lots and lots of bubbles at every bleader.
I did bench blead the new master cyclinder, but I'm not a hundred precent sure it was right as the new part didn't include the srew in plugs that allow you to blead in back into the m/c.

So, after a couple of quarts of fluids I'm scratching my head.
Any ideas?
Thanks

 

Also, I have a clicking coming from the rear abs solinoid when the ignition is cycled. It sounds like a relay clicking. It only does it once and the light on the dash will stay on until it clicks, then goes out.

 

I would try re-bleeding the master, you can get tubing from the parts store and make proper bleeding tubes. Just disconnect the lines and do it on the truck, no need to take it off.

 

Our you sure the two lines at master are tight? If they are not everytime you try and bleed wheel cylinders some air will be pulled back into brake system. Never let the master run dry while bleeding or you will put air in the system and need to start over.


BASE BRAKE BLEEDING
Use Mopar brake fluid, or an equivalent quality fluid meeting SAE J1703-F and DOT 3 standards only. Use fresh, clean fluid from a sealed container at all times.

Do not pump the brake pedal at any time while bleeding. Air in the system will be compressed into small bubbles that are distributed throughout the hydraulic system. This will make additional bleeding operations necessary.

Do not allow the master cylinder to run out of fluid during bleed operations. An empty cylinder will allow additional air to be drawn into the system. Check the cylinder fluid level frequently and add fluid as needed.

Bleed only one brake component at a time in the following sequence:

•Master Cylinder
•Combination Valve
•Rear Antilock Valve
•Right Rear Wheel
•Left Rear Wheel
•Right Front Wheel
•Left Front Wheel
MANUAL BLEEDING
1.Remove reservoir filler caps and fill reservoir.
2.If calipers, or wheel cylinders were overhauled, open all caliper and wheel cylinder bleed screws. Then close each bleed screw as fluid starts to drip from it. Top off master cylinder reservoir once more before proceeding.
3.Attach one end of bleed hose to bleed screw and insert opposite end in glass container partially filled with brake fluid Bleed Hose Setup Be sure end of bleed hose is immersed in fluid.
4.Open up bleeder, then have a helper press down the brake pedal. Once the pedal is down close the bleeder. Repeat bleeding until fluid stream is clear and free of bubbles. Then move to the next wheel.

 

there are things made by dorman called speed bleeders get a set for your truck. they are worth there weight in gold for bleeding brakes. they allow you to crack the bleeder open an leave it open. so you dont have to keep closing it every time you relese the peddle, just crack it open an pump the brakes till all the air is gone!

 

Thanks for the replies. I've gone through the system per the manuals instructions. Just what Big iron posted.
I've seen the speed bleader things, but at 10 bucks each they probably do cost their own weight in gold!
I think my problem is that I didn't get the master blead right. I'll go and get some tubing today and reblead the thing and give it a shot.
Thanks

 

omg they arent that expensive, im at work right now an there only 6.95 for two of them. might want to check around if you want to go that rout

 

actually,

I'd always use DOT4. Harder to find and more $$- but it absorbs more moisture which minimizes rust of your lines. It also has a higher boiling point. DOT3 is a very old standard.

 

Reblead the master and things went decent after that. I think there is some crossion on the brake bleader letting some air in and that was throwing me off, too.
Thanks