AC cycling on and off
Well on top of the air leak problem, my ac started to cycle on and off again, on the 4th hottest day in Phoenix. Well I found the problem, I was jiggling the wires around and one of the wires to the compressor clutch came off...GRRRRRR. So, I thought about just replacing the clutch, but then I thought that the compressor has 300k+ miles on it, so I bought one of those complete kits off of ebay. Comes with compressor, clutch, pag oil, accumulator, expansion valve and seal kit. $290 bucks with next day delivery, Tuesday I hope. Anyone have experience with this kit? The guy has 99.7% PFB, so he's not cheating too many people...Mark
Some electrical tips, sometimes related to where your truck spent its life. It's good general tips too though.
On every electrical device the Ground is just as critical as the hot leads. There's an engine ground strap to firewall of course. The fender inner panels may have electrical devices connected to them that ground from device mounting screws into body panels. Then the body panels attached to cab are supposed to maintain the ground continuity through attachment screws.
I prefer to run jumper leads, at least 12 ga and preferably 10 ga, from clean bare metal connections at body panels and back to firewall. Also good to ground bed with a jumper wire to cab to help the grounds for your rear lights.
Good to closely inspect each wire connector. They can look okay from a distance or seem tight but many times several strands of wire are broken right at crimp connector, hidden damage you wouldn't notice at a glance.
Lastly in some cases I've found a wire looking fine and apparently well attached to connector. Closer inspection by a small cut into insulation reveals a green grungy wire hidden inside plastic insulation! Especially true of battery cable connections.
Any of these simple things could potentially effect your A/C or any other electrical critter.
On every electrical device the Ground is just as critical as the hot leads. There's an engine ground strap to firewall of course. The fender inner panels may have electrical devices connected to them that ground from device mounting screws into body panels. Then the body panels attached to cab are supposed to maintain the ground continuity through attachment screws.
I prefer to run jumper leads, at least 12 ga and preferably 10 ga, from clean bare metal connections at body panels and back to firewall. Also good to ground bed with a jumper wire to cab to help the grounds for your rear lights.
Good to closely inspect each wire connector. They can look okay from a distance or seem tight but many times several strands of wire are broken right at crimp connector, hidden damage you wouldn't notice at a glance.
Lastly in some cases I've found a wire looking fine and apparently well attached to connector. Closer inspection by a small cut into insulation reveals a green grungy wire hidden inside plastic insulation! Especially true of battery cable connections.
Any of these simple things could potentially effect your A/C or any other electrical critter.
Well on top of the air leak problem, my ac started to cycle on and off again, on the 4th hottest day in Phoenix. Well I found the problem, I was jiggling the wires around and one of the wires to the compressor clutch came off...GRRRRRR. So, I thought about just replacing the clutch, but then I thought that the compressor has 300k+ miles on it, so I bought one of those complete kits off of ebay. Comes with compressor, clutch, pag oil, accumulator, expansion valve and seal kit. $290 bucks with next day delivery, Tuesday I hope. Anyone have experience with this kit? The guy has 99.7% PFB, so he's not cheating too many people...Mark
That the guy in Miami, Arctic Air or something like it? If so I bought one of those kits several years ago for my Caprice. Worked well, and still was going when I got rid of the car several years later. Dunno about long term like OEM, but I had nothing bad to say at all.
Of course you need a recovery tank for each type of refrigerant, but I am only concerned with r12 right now. Does anyone have experience with R-410? It is said to be a R-12 replacement. It is a higher pressure refrigerant. I am going to do the job when everything gets here and will take how to pics..Mark
We have been having some pretty nasty weather here in California also.

http://news.yahoo.com/death-valley-t...034246832.html
We have camped here, no ides why though.
Death Valley, is such an appropriate name.
Jim
http://news.yahoo.com/death-valley-t...034246832.html
We have camped here, no ides why though.
Death Valley, is such an appropriate name.
Jim
We have been having some pretty nasty weather here in California also.
http://news.yahoo.com/death-valley-t...034246832.html
We have camped here, no ides why though.
Death Valley, is such an appropriate name.
Jim
http://news.yahoo.com/death-valley-t...034246832.html
We have camped here, no ides why though.
Death Valley, is such an appropriate name.
Jim
High temps are sexy and all, but the real problems are the low temps. I took this pic a few minutes ago. We have not been below 90 degrees for a week and the forecast doesn't see us under 90 until the 5th or 6th, then it's 89. That is A.M. also...

...Mark


...Mark
Well, the new compressor kit came in. That guy in SD charged me 30 bucks for next day, shipped yesterday, in my house today by 8:00 A.M.. It is made by Behr-Hella, certainly a good brand name, but made in China (bummer). It does seem to be quality, the connectors are exact and the filter dryer looks factory. Does anyone know, When I evacuate the current r-12 system with the freon recovery machine, does that remove all the oil that is currently in there?...Mark
It will remove the oil that is mixed with the R12, but not the oil still in the evap. condenser, compressor, drier, etc.
Oh, and R410 is what is in my new A/C system at the house. It is supposed to replace R22, not R12.
Oh, and R410 is what is in my new A/C system at the house. It is supposed to replace R22, not R12.
Thanks, what is the best way to get the rest of the oil out? The compressor, H-block and filter dryer are all new....Mark
I am converting to 134-A. Am I correct in thinking that most of the non-vapor oil is in the compressor? I found one site that says that up to 2% mineral oil left after a conversion is acceptable and will not affect performance. Another said not to use solvent, because any of that left will cause problems. I am considering Just compressed air into all the open lines, without solvent. What do you think?,,,Mark







