will a turbo out of a 98 fit in my 92 ? Im talking about the whole thing. thanks

 

Yep, should work just fine. The '98 24 valves still had the clamped on exhaust elbow, so the housing will mate right up to your downpipe. You will need to slide the whole exhaust system back a little bit or shorten the downpipe because the exhaust housing is a little longer.

 

Just because I am turbo stupid, what would be the differences and advantages of switching?

 

In simple turms the 98 turbo will cause our trucks to light or start pulling much quicker then before! much,much, less lag time of the turbo.....and has a waste gate to keep the turbo form spinning to fast and killing the internals of the turbo.

Advantage...Hmmm you may be able to hold that gear that you youst to have to shift down for(Better mileage).......You will be able to exselerate up the on ramp much quicker......Be able to add more fuel,safer cause of the extra boost(air avalable) to make more power......You could make the back tire spin from a dead stop,that the stock turbo(and fuelling)will never do! ....It would be allmost safe to us with out guages if the pump was a known stock inj pump!.....

Down side.......a.........you would have to move or cut the down pipe for clearance and clamp ability!
Ok i'm getting carryed a way here......all shut up now1

 

What are the spec's on that turbo?

 

If its a stock 98 its an HX35W and will have a 12cm turbine

 

What size do our 1st gens have? I have a 92' with 5-speed and a 93' with auto, if that makes any difference? Would changing turbo's completely or just housings help if the rest of the engine was bone stock?

 

you've got an H1C with either an 18.5cm housing or a 21cm housing

another benefit to the HX35 is it has a MWE slot cut in the compressor housing so it's gonna SCREAM way louder than an H1C

 

So would putting on an HX35 on either of my trucks help it's performance without adding fuel? I really don't want to add any fuel. What would be the negative effects if any? Easy conversion? How do you hook up the wastgate?

 

Thats if you remove that pesky silencer ring.

 

I don't want to rain on anybodies parade, but the 24v 12cm exhaust housing has 2 tapped holes in with studs in it. Does anybody know, (cause I can't remember even though I just put one back on last week ) if those tapped holes can be drilled out and the housing bolted on like ours is now with all 4 studs in the manifold or is there a different modification that needs to be done.

If its a 12v 98, then just bolt that puppy in there and shorten the downpipe.

 

I got a 24v 12cm and just drilled the holes out; it works fine. And since jcb is getting the whole turbo he won't have to worry about the wastegate actuator position because he will have the compressor housing designed for it... unlike me...

 

I should be getting my HX-35 sometime next week and I'm looking forward to the more responsive, much quicker spool up . I'll post a write up on it when I've swapped it in.

 

It will make the '92 5 speed feel like a whole different truck. The '93 auto will be a little quicker off the line, but nothing dramatic.

No negative effects unless you typically cruise over 75 mph. It'll drop a couple MPG at very high speeds due to the restriction.

Like I said in my first post, it's a bolt-together deal. No fab work needed.

If you aren't adding fuel you don't even need to hook up the wastegate. With stock fueling you'll only get 25-28 psi out of it anyway. If you want to hook it up, just run a line from the boost port on the head to the wastegate actuator.

 

OK, so if this is good for 25-28psi of boost, what is it now with my stock turbo? Is this going to hurt anything as far as EGT's go? I tow extremely heavy loads and I don't want to worry about getting anything hot. I don't want to add any fuel. I'd just like a little more grunt down low. But like I said, I pull heavy, don't want to melt anything.