Edwin,

Thanks for the quick reply! I will keep that all in mind when I tackle this next project!!!

Thanks again,

Charlie

 

Might add, use anti-seize lube or moly grease instead of white grease on the adjuster threads and friction points. It doesn't attract as much dirt and grime and still lubes when dried out.

 

If you are replacing the belt because it is walking off the pulleys, then you need to change the tensioner or the new belt will do the same thing. If the belt is tracking straight, when you have it off to inspect it, push and pull the tensioner side to side. It should not wiggle - if it does, it needs to be replaced.

On removing the axle shafts: Usually you have to whack the axle with a hammer to break it loose after you remove the bolts. I have been unable to find a source for the gasket that Dodge allegedly put there, so I use a thin bead of RTV silicone. Be careful with the hub/drum assembly - it weighs a lot! There is gear oil inside the hub, so have a big drain pan ready to catch any spills. There are little sheetmetal keys that hold the bearing locknuts, carefully remove them before you remove the locknuts - they are $6 each from Dodge. The locknut is 2 9/16 rounded hex, you need a special socket. When you put everything back together, smear a little wheel bearing grease on the wheel bearings so they have some lube until the gear oil splashes in from the diff. The locknut is torqued to 120 ft# while spinning the drum, then backed off 2/3 of a turn. The whole thing is kind of a PITA. I get to do it again this weekend because Advance auto parts gave me the wrong seals.

 

Hey guys,

Your notes are terrific! I am down to getting the drums off, but it feels like the pads need to be backed off to get it off.

Question: Which way do I turn those adjusters to get the brakes backed off enough to remove the drums?

They seem to rachet one way and then not turn the other. Have I messed up??

I really need to break down and buy a book for this so I don't get stuck asking stupid questions...

 

You need to move the part of the star wheel next to the back plate downward to loosen the shoes.

 

The direction they don't want to go is the direction they have to go.

You do this by sticking a thin screwdriver in next to the star wheel and holding the ratchet plate away from the star wheel.

 

Thank You! Thank You! Thank You! Now I might get these off sooner than later and get them turned tomorrow!

Did I say thank you?

Charlie

 

Yeah, if you don't hold the ratchet plate off it will just tighten them back with every stroke. It's a PITA.

 

Got everything off and now am ready to tackle the serpentine belt and tensioner.

I still have the notes regarding whether or not the tensioner needs replacement but I am not too sure where to start with the belt, removal, and replacement. Is there anything special I should know before I attempt to remove this?

Charlie

 

Get a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and a piece of pipe to go over the breaker bar. There is a 1/2 inch square hole in the tensioner to help get the belt off/on.

Once you have the belt off, try to move the tensioner from side to side. If it has any movement it needs to be replaced.

Edwin

 

So if I understand you correctly I should remove the belt using the tensioner and if the tensioner is not solid it also needs to be replaced. Is that about right?

 

Well, I got it changed, but it didn't come off as easy as was noted above. There was no place to insert the 1/2" breaker bar, it was just a 1/2" bolt. When it was removed it all (belt and tensioner) fell off. To install the new serpentine belt I had to remove the top bolt on the alternater and let this down to it's lowest point first. Then I used a tie-down strap looped under the belt to get it onto the alternater pully. Once the belt was in place on the pully I slid the strap down from between the pully and belt and removed it. I then used my breaker bar to push the alternater back into place and secure it with the previously removed 1/2" bolt. I took the drums into a local machine shop to have the bearings pressed out and replaced and to also have the drums turned. It seams that someone previously replaced both pads and shoes but failed to have any machine work completed.

Thanks to wannadiesel and Edwin for all of your input and notes!!! Your help really made this job a lot easier. Come Monday everything will be back together and then I can see about adjusting the valves.

Does anyone have any input as to this job? Is it better left to a professional or can I do it myself?

 

The valve job is easy on an 89. I don't know if the 93 has the individual valve covers or not but it can't be that much harder. Use this proceedure to adjust the valves:

http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/val.../12_valve.html

 

Valve adjustment is the same as the link Edwin posted. It is easy. You don't need any of the special tools mentioned, a big socket on the alternator nut will turn the engine.

Most of the tensioners I've seen have a 3/8" square hole for a breaker bar, I use a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter on a 1/2" breaker bar. Some aftermarket ones have a 1/2" hole. Look at the tensioner again and you'll slap yourself.

 

Wannadiesel, I bought the gaskets from the local Dodge Dealer, part number 04384186, about $8 apiece.

John