Is replacing the front wheel bearings on a D250 2WD something I can do on my own in my garage? I have basic tools and basic mechanical skills.

Can anyone give me any tips on this job?

Any recomendations of where to get the parts, and what parts I need?

Any help is very much appreciated.

Mahalo.

Jeff

 

Very easy job. But first, why do you think you need new wheel bearings? Slop? Noise?

Anyway...

2 bolts will remove the retainer clips on the brake caliper. 2 more bolts will remove the brake caliper. Pop the cap off the center of the hub with a big flat screwdriver. Remove the lock pin. Then remove the bug retainer nut.

If the bearing races need replacing you'll have to drift those out and press some new ones in. That's possible to do with hand tools, but easier to have someone with a press do it. So you'll just need the inner and outer bearings and races and the rear seal.

Pack the new bearings with lots of grease. Work it into all the crannies real good. Take your time.

Put it back together. I don't have the tightening procedure in front of me right now for the bearing retainer nut. You tighten it to a certain value then back off a little. If someone doesn't supply that info I can when I get home.

You can get the parts and most any parts store. You may want to replace the seal on the back of the hub while you're at it. It will have to come out to replace the rear bearing anyway.

Tools: some basic sockets, a large-ish one for the retainer nut, a big screwdriver, a torque wrench if you can get your hands on one, some pliers for removing the lock pin, a hammer or mallet for removing and reinstalling the hub cap.

Enjoy and Aloha!

 

Truckerdee-

Thank you for your informative reply. The reason for replacing the wheel bearing is that I believe it is the culprit for my driver side front wheel that is leaning in. It is possible to remove everything, and relube, and reinstall and tighten, or should I just replace the bearings races and seals and be done with it? I am hoping that it is just the wheel bearing, because I really don't want to dump more money into front suspension again.

Thanks again.

-Jeff

 

You'll know if it's a loose bearing by jacking up the front and simply trying to wiggle the tire. If the bearing is loose, you'll feel it!

Yes, you can disassemble, inspect, and reassemble. You'll know if the bearings are bad by inspecting them. The races should be smooth without pitting. And the bearing the same.

Only two reasons really for a loose bearing. One is someone didn't replace the lock pin in the retaining nut. The second is worn bearings. It's a very simple design and you'll understand it once you look at it.

Also, if your tire is leaning in, it could be the bushings in the lower and upper control arms and/or the ball joints that attach the spindle to the control arms and/or just a out of alignment. You can change the camber at the control arm pivot on the frame.

But check the wheel bearings first. That's easy to do.

 

Don't know the exact torque for the nuts, but I've always tightened them so the wheel would not turn then backed off 'til the wheel goes ~ 1/4 turn when I spin it.
Turn it ~ 1/2 turn with your hand and it should turn ~ 1/4 more by itself.
My bearing always went 50 - 60 K. The passenger side would always wear first, the driver's side felt good but I replaced them as a pair.
That's on my gassers - - 550K on my '81 and 400K+ on my '86. So far my '93 had the bearing replaced 50K ago when I rebuilt the front end to kill the Death Wobble.