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89-91 Voltage "pulsing" issue solved!

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Old Sep 30, 2015 | 02:55 PM
  #16  
Ikes91's Avatar
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From: Wilton, IA
Originally Posted by Brian.B
Can I run a jumper wire from battery e sense wire just to test
I would guess so...but putting the voltage regulator on a relay is basically running a jumper wire...

Now, with putting the regulator on a relay, the red wire (battery feed) in the picture is what the voltage regulator "sees" so it can tell the alternator to charge accordingly, the blue wire becomes just a trigger wire, telling the relay to close the circuit to the regulator.
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Old Jan 5, 2016 | 09:14 PM
  #17  
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Okay, let's see if I understand what has been done.

The BLUE wire of the regulator plug is battery-voltage via the key-switch, right ?

The GREEN wire is the signal from regulator to alternator, right ?

The new BLUE wire becomes the relay's trigger wire, right /

And, the relay is switching un-adulterated direct battery voltage straight into the regulator, right ?


Thanks for posting this helpful article.


On my monitor, some of the images/pictures are corrupted.
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Old Nov 8, 2021 | 07:07 PM
  #18  
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Additional blue wire & relay

i am probably over thinking this. The two blue wires that are attached together at the relay with one going to the regulator. At the relay are you connected to 30 while the ground is 87A?
The separate blue wire is on 86? where does this blue wire lead to & connect?
The hot direct battery wire 85?
On thé pin side there are corresponding numbers to each male end. In case
Are you using the OEM blue wire in the loom going to the alt/ac connecter?
Many thanks

Doug


Originally Posted by Ikes91
Just a regular relay should work, I just used what I had. All I really did besides moving the regulator off the firewall was set it up so it reads voltage directly from the battery, instead of through the ignition on circuit, where there is a little resistance because of the nature of a long run of wires, multiple connections and what not. All the little wiring and connections have a very, very small resistance to them, but even miniscule amounts at each will add up just enough for the regulator to do the charge "wiggle wiggle" of the gauge and lights, etc. Clear as mud?
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Old Nov 8, 2021 | 08:40 PM
  #19  
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I am so happy to see this thread, I have having the exact problem and it is trying to kill my battery as well.
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Old Nov 9, 2021 | 03:47 AM
  #20  
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Make sure to remove and sand clean every ground wire that you can find and even add a few. The only grounds going from the battery to the frame are the little black wire from the battery to the core support and indirectly through the negative terminal to the engine. My mom always said that you can’t have too many grounds…Mark
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Old Nov 9, 2021 | 02:04 PM
  #21  
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More grounds the better

Originally Posted by maybe368
Make sure to remove and sand clean every ground wire that you can find and even add a few. The only grounds going from the battery to the frame are the little black wire from the battery to the core support and indirectly through the negative terminal to the engine. My mom always said that you can’t have too many grounds…Mark
it’s best to have several grounds.
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Old Dec 20, 2021 | 12:51 PM
  #22  
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From: Pahoa, HI USA
I am stuck on this one- do I need to replace the internal voltage regulated altenator with an external type? If so, where how what do I get?

I am sure the PCM is toast on this issue
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Old Oct 24, 2023 | 09:30 PM
  #23  
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From: Tijeras, New Mexico, 7,000ft up
So how did a relay stop the pulsing? I have a 1993 that I bypassed the ECU VR because I caught the harness on fire and still haven't fixed it (to my shame) and put in a blue VR.
The pulsing drives me crazy, like Chinese water torture.
Was thinking about sticking a big capacitor in line to smooth it out, but your solution looks cleaner. Can you draw out the schematic please?
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Old Oct 25, 2023 | 06:55 AM
  #24  
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Ikes91 has not been on DTR in over 4 years.
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Old Oct 25, 2023 | 09:05 AM
  #25  
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Depends on how you wired it. If you tapped directly off the ignition switch you will have THE problem. Actually common that the ignition switch contacts deteriorate over time/use and become resistive giving the voltage regulator a false sense reading. Use the ignition switch to power the relay and use the contacts to power the VR directly from the battery.
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