If you have the 7226 moog springs I would like to know how they ride.

Stiffer, firmer, bouncier, etc. I looking to fix the front sag and hopefully make the ride a little more compliant. I read all threads searched under "spring" and didn't really find what I wanted. I sure that I do not want the "7226S" I'm also sure that I don't want to use the daystar spacers. The current driver side spring is sagged pretty good.

I'm also thinking about bagging the front end completely and relocating the shocks. Any ideas or input there would be nice.

I will be installing monroe sensatrac shocks this evening and pulling a few leafs from the rear and see how much this helps. I pretty sure I can make the truck liveable.


I have one more scheme/idea. I was thinking of getting some polyurethane compound that is a softer compound than the daystars and casting my own coil spacers. The compound comes in 2 parts and is castable. Its $29 a pound. Its used often to make homemade motor mounts, suspension parts.

 

Well they don't make a sensatrac shock for my application. I have the 4000# front axle. Great. I guess I'll do the gas magnums.

 

I didn't notice a difference in ride to tell you the truth.. the 7226s raised my front end a bit but I believe after about 1.5 years they have sagged back down a bit... I believe there are some bigger carquest springs that greenleaf from tdr used that make it sit up like a 4x4 almost and ride like it too... you want see too much difference either way with the 7226 s in the long run... a good replacement for saggy bottomed out stocker springs, however

 

The 7226 springs are equivalent to OEM. They ride like stock, they sag like stock.

The 7226S springs ride about the same but lift the front end 1 to 1.5 inches. I like mine. See this link for a comparison of the lift of the two:
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/u...&albumid=17434

I'm not sure where you're headed with "livable" - that's a personal thing. I'll admit my back springs are stiff when I'm not towing, but I put the tire air pressure down where it ought to be for nearly no load at all, and the ride isn't bad. That's about 35-40#.

Regards, DBF

 

Since we're on the topic, and lovemysan if you don't mind the hijack. DBF, pepe, how hard is the install of these 7226s springs? My crew sags terribly and could use some springs up front.

 

well I did it alone with only basic hand tools, a pickle fork and a floor jack in a matter of an afternoon.... just took it down to the spindle, isolated the lower control arm (took out shocks/ drag bar (?), etc), put the jack underneaththe end of the lower control arm, and popped the lower balljoint off with the picle fork and lowered the jack slowly, until the spring was fully decommpressed, then wiggled it outta there. no need to take the lower control arm off the bushing/inboard side. just pop outboard side off the steering knuckle and lower it down, like a hinge shoved in new 7226s springs and did the reverse.
you may want to look into those carquest springs scott aka grennleaf used. they might provide you with a nice even ride with that longer heavy chassis. I may be forgetting a few steps, however it's just good to keep in mind that there is a lethal amount of potential energy stored up in those springs, so watch out, hate to see one jump out and bite anyone

 

Well if there is no noticable ride improvement, I'll just keep driving her sagging. I did find some 7" cups on ebay last night that would allow me to mount some bags in the front, pretty easy looking. I'm still looking though.

 

I did mine the same way. It took about 2 hours. The hardest part was breaking the lower ball joint loose. My only screw up was I did not plan on replacing the lower ball joints at the same time. Mine were bad and needed it but there was no place to get them when I did it.

After 2 1/2 years, my truck still sits up well.

Carl