6-Port Motor Driven Valve
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From: Black Hills of South Dakota
6-Port Motor Driven Valve
I'm looking for an 6 port valve with 1/2" ID supply ports to use on my twin Ramcharger gas (now fuel) tanks. Something along the lines of a Pollack Item # 42-300 Light Truck 6-Port Motor Driven Valve (Light Truck 6-Port Motor Driven Valve on Pollak ), but with 1/2" ID hose for fuel supply ports instead of 3/8".
I like the design of the Pollack because with the flip of a button, it switches both lines simultaneously, avoiding cross-tank contamination. It even switches the fuel tank senders so your gauge reads whatever tank it's feeding off of.
Anyone have a source for such a valve?
I like the design of the Pollack because with the flip of a button, it switches both lines simultaneously, avoiding cross-tank contamination. It even switches the fuel tank senders so your gauge reads whatever tank it's feeding off of.
Anyone have a source for such a valve?
I done been there and done all that with 6-port electric valves and I have about half-a-dozen dead ones hanging on the shop wall to prove it; no more for me.
For many years, I have been using TWO manual 4-way valves (WeatherHead brand) with stainless ball-valves--not plastic; one valve is DRAW-lines, the other is RETURN-lines; these have served me well for many years, along with a SPDT switch for the gauges.
For many years, I have been using TWO manual 4-way valves (WeatherHead brand) with stainless ball-valves--not plastic; one valve is DRAW-lines, the other is RETURN-lines; these have served me well for many years, along with a SPDT switch for the gauges.
Here is where :
https://www.flowline.net/default.asp...&CurrentPage=6
Since I have three tanks, I use the 4-way = TANK#1, TANK#2, TANK#3, and OFF.
I have a bunch of similar valves, except with plastic ball-valves; they work fine until one day the operating-stem decides to shear loose in the plastic.
Actually, if you are dead-set on using an electric valve, you would be much better off by using TWO single-line valves, one being for DRAW and the other RETURN.
Since they are electric, there is absolutely no reason that the whole switching process must be done in one unit.
By using a DPDT switch as shown, all the functions will still work the same as the more problematic 6-way valve.
The worst part about Pollacks... 1/2 the folks NEVER have a problem & the other 1/2 ALWAYS do!
My D350 has a Pollack in place (currently de-plumbed due to "sticking") and *if* I ever proceed with running grease in the bed mount 80gal tank, I'm planning to use a couple of Frybrids valves (which are VERY close to off-the-shelf Viton equipped hydraulic valves). Together, they act just like a Pollack... only without any of the monkey biz (plastic, sticking, non-serviceable, low operating temp/pressure, etc.) associated with the Pollacks.

Also available with 3/8" fittings, but I bet with a little leg work, you could source a set with 1/2" fittings from a hydraulic shop...
My D350 has a Pollack in place (currently de-plumbed due to "sticking") and *if* I ever proceed with running grease in the bed mount 80gal tank, I'm planning to use a couple of Frybrids valves (which are VERY close to off-the-shelf Viton equipped hydraulic valves). Together, they act just like a Pollack... only without any of the monkey biz (plastic, sticking, non-serviceable, low operating temp/pressure, etc.) associated with the Pollacks.

Also available with 3/8" fittings, but I bet with a little leg work, you could source a set with 1/2" fittings from a hydraulic shop...
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