I'm late to the party but I'm enjoying the discussion. Been a long time since I've tuned mine so this is refreshing. Mine's an auto (with a low stall TC) so I'll just sit back and listen & learn.

 

Its been a while simce ive been on this post because i was having a lot of issues with my 403k mile fuel pump. I previously had installed a 366 spring and a thd fuel pin.

I just had the pump stripped down cleaned replaced a few parts, resealed the entire thing then calibrated it. Pulled the aparently not stock delco 4 hole injectors out, had them cleaned and had the pressure calibrated. And put on a free 400k mile hx35 in place of my old h1c.....


Before this the truck could have doubled a brass polisher/tumbler.

It was so loud you could not have a conversation in it with the windows closed above 1000 rpm. Average boost would hit around 10 psi and wot boost up a hill unladen was about 18psi.

Test drove it tonight, its so quiet i was able to have a conversation with my mechanic at 2k rpm with the windows down at 65mph. At wot i made 28psi, and i was hitting my average shift speeds at 200 to 500 rpm lower than before. Its amazing. Sadly i was so gitty that i stopped paying attention and smoked my clutch trying to pull onto the highway thinking i was in 2nd but was in 4th.... still drives fine but i cant immagine it was good for my clutch...


Still have to dissect the power steering pump to replace the now broken oil pressure sending unit , adjust the afc for smoke and proper and adequate boost fuel, then see if i can get more out of the power screw without exceeding my personal smoke preference.

the hx35 came off of a heavy equipment application too, i had to push the exhaust back an inch just to get it to fit the exhaust housing.


When i get it back home i will try to look up the pn info on the holset tag and see if i can get the comp/turbine measurements the waste gate pressure, and the cm² of the exhaust housing, then likely modify or at the bare minimum get a rebuild kit for the old besrings and what ever else needs to be redone. Oh and took the silencer ring out and its not even as annoying as a powerstroke unless im at 28psi.

 

make that 36 psi now lol.

Question though, have any of you tried THD magic bullet? Between the pump rebuild and reseal, new filter, new turbo, and magic bullet isntall, im not sure which is causing it but i lose prime pretty bad overnight. It still fires up the second i turn the key but it idles about like jabba the hut chewing on chains. Once its been able to warm up or equalize pressure or what ever its fine, idles beautifully, and doesnt cause me any mroe issues until i leave it sit over night again.

 

Check any place where air could get in, on any place that you did work.
All fuel lines, fuel; filters O rings, lift pump lines and clamps.
Sounds like you are getting an air leak in the system.
Keeping the tank full and parking the truck nose down can help, as the fuel is less prone to running back to the tank with gravity.

 

So, I have been looking for leaks for a few days and cant find anything yet. I was curious about the magic bullet because I could if desired swap the rubber tipped one back in.
I do know that when we were putting the pump back on, the water separator on my filter right in front of my eyes in real time just randomly let go and started pissing diesel. We ended up just putting on a filter without the separator.

 

I used an old fuel cap, installed a air chuck set my compressor for 8-10 lbs waited about 20 minuets then started following all the lines. Most times a leak allowing air infiltration won't leak till you pressurize it.

 

Sooo... about borrowing that handy little contraption..lol

 

Correct air leaks on a line under suction will NOT leak fuel, just suck air.
I have the same tool I made out of and old fuel cap in my tool box. It is easy to make and cheaper than shipping…

 

Yeah I just priced a new cheap one from napa. I think I still have a few fittings left over. I was thinking about making and secondary adapter with Qd's on both ends so that I can monitor the pressure at the vehicle in the event my compressor regulator fails.

 

I have used a smooth study piece of cardboard with a small hole in it that I jamb an air nozzle into before many times with great results as well. If you did not want to buy a spare cap.

 

So Ive been looking into the hx35 i got for free from my mechanic. I had to move my downpipe/exhaust back nearly an inch and a half to get the the exhaust housing to fit, even though everything else lined up perfectly. I was under the impression an hx35 was supposed to be a drop in. I ran the numbers and at least the compressor housing is from a 96 to 98 ram. Do you think if I was to post some photos of the exhaust housing maybe spmeone might be able to give me a reasonable guess as to what the exhaust housing came from? Im trying to figure out what its specs are to see whats been modified and can or should still be modified further. Also if dping so will be cheaper than buying a new premodified turbo.

 

 

Whenever you install a waste gated 2nd gen turbo on a 1st gen that came with a shorter NON waste gated exhaust housing, you need to move the exhaust back 1 1/2 inches.
Done it a dozen times and I have to move things back every time.

Looks normal to me.

 

oh wow, thanks for the heads up. That means its likely not modded yet, and that the performance can get better yet still. Sweeet.