where's the best place/price to get these at ? ... Does anyone have any picture's of your truck with a 4" lift and 35's.. does Summit carry these ? Thanks

 

are sure 35s will fit with only a 4 without cutting fenders. i know skyjacker makes a front spring specified for a diesel,so it might bring it up a touch, but most companies don't you just use the "gas truck" springs and the xtra motor weight brings her down an inch or so extra, i know i have a 6 and my 35x14.5 will rub on the smallest of bumps, looks sweet but not as practicle as i am used to. and i had a ramcharger that 35x12.5 rubbed with a 4" really hard. but do u have any truck shops around your area that is where we get them up here. your catalogs usually are more expensive because of shipping. good choice on the skyjacker though.

 

I have the 2.5in skyjacker springs, specified for the diesel, you want to get the ones specified for the diesel, but I just have stock size tires, there is alot of room in the fenderwells though

 

Are we talking about coil springs or leaf springs.

First gen section would lead me to believe Leaf Springs.?


phox

 

ive got a 4in lift and my 33s rub sometimes

 

35's clear my truck with no rubbing on a 6" lift.

 

I put a set of 4" skys on the front of my 93 350 4x4 to level it out. everyone said it looked like a stink bug with the azz up so high. It leveled it out and left it about a inch higher up front. made loadin the camper easy. It rode much nicer, dont know abouy the 35s. you will have steering issues regarding the drag link being to short now. You will loose much of your right hand turning radius. You`ll want to get a adjustable arm to fix it.

 

DesertRat your truck is BADDDDDDA$$.. I Like it! Where did you get the parts for your x over stearing ? Did you need to lower your Carrier bearing? Do you get any driveline vibration? I'd like to see a closer picture of those nerf bar / running boards you have there.. did you make them? Is there anything that you Dont Like about the Skyjacker springs? Did you get a True 6" lift after the springs settled? Before and after measurement's??????Do you happen to know what your driveline angles are??? LOT's a questions D Thanks

 

CrewCabCummins, the pics in my gallery are old and I need to update. The running boards are gone. And the 38" PJ's and 17"wheels are now 35" BFG's on 18" wheels.
The carrier bearing was removed when i shortened the frame for the short bed. The Skyjacker springs were on the stiff side when installed, so I removed a leaf from each of them. Didn't seem to lower it any but improved the ride. They still haven't sagged after almost two years. Good quality springs. If you want I can measure from my frame to front spring plate, so you can see how much "True" lift the 6" springs will give you.

With a 6" lift I would HIGHLY recommend x-over steering. The stock steering is bad made even worse with a lift, really bad bump steer, poor turning radius, turning sharper one way than the other, upsidedown steering wheel, broken box adapter plate, cracked frame, broken left front spring mount, broken left upper king pin, crappy sloppy steering shaft joint, tire rubbing pitman arm when turning right, draglink that won't stop wearing out really fast, death wobble, etc. Don't waste money on an adj. drag link, steering arm spacer, or whatever. They will cost the about the same as a x-over conversion, and still suck.

BTW The running boards were from a superduty Furd truck.

 

Well my 6" springs will be here on thursday DesertRat can you post a picture of your truck the way it looks Rightnow.. Thanks

 

Well the springs are on... and it LOOKS BADA$$... BUT it "wanders" around now, where as before it was solid stright with NO effort to keep it stright. I measured the pinion angle with a protractor.. 12deg "before"... 16deg "after". If I took out the tapered shim on the leaf pack it looks like it would be back to 10 to 12 deg.. DesertRat what did you have to do to fix the steering? What changes did you have to make to the front driveline? It pulled mine out at least 2" and it looks like if I rotate the axle DOWN to set the pinion angle.. That the YOKE on the driveshaft will not operate at that angle and bind .. It also now takes about 4 lanes to make a U-turn But I do know that all these things can be fixed... Im ALL EARS...Any Ideas...I'll be doing the x-over steering in a week or two:

 

Sounds like you're on the right track as to what need to be done. Getting the caster back to stock will help with the steering tracking and return to center. The cross over will help with bump steer and getting equal turning left and right.

 

will the x-over conversion help with e 2x4?

 

Crewcabcummins I had to lengthen my front driveline, and do some clearancing on the CV yoke at the t-case. Caster is more important than pinion angle, not enough caster will make it wander and drive sloppy. But too much will bind the pinion yoke. I set mine with as much caster as possible without binding the driveshaft. Kind of a comprimise between the two angles. The x-over steering will fix your turning problem. I'll be more than happy to answer any questions you have on your x-over conversion.

 

So DesertRat did you leave the shim's on your front springs that came with them or use something else? The ONLY thing that makes my steering OK for now is the Borgeson shaft .... its Tight but REALLY touchy.. My x-over parts wont be here for a couple weeks Im going outside now to take the shims out and try like that