So a buddy and I were putting in a 3200 gov spring today in his 93 D250. We get everything apart just fine, marked all the alignments and such with no issues. We get the spring in just fine and everything back together. He goes to start the truck up and it idles fine, but when he gives it a little throttle it dies. And i stress the little part. What the heck did we do wrong? This is the write up that we used:
http://dens-site.net/Dodge_CTD/Gover...ing/index.html
My first question is, what is the lever that the finger is on? How, and does it work with the fuel shut off next to it? In the write up he says the it must have moved on him so he pushed it back and it clicked. His lever is free to move with no detents or anything like that,but went on easy. Normal?



Next, how are the components in the actual bowl supposed to look upon installation? There are two "plates" in there. One where the top hat goes through, and another part in front of it that gets pushed when the spring gets pulled. Is there supposed to be a gap in the upon installation or are they supposed to be touching? In the below picture there is a little bit of a gap. I was thinking maybe the arm in the above picture is supposed to keep them seperated.


My apoplogies for not knowing proper nomenclature. Im still learning about the older Cummins vehicles. Please point us in the right direction. Thanks!!

 

the lever ur finger is on is the afc lever, i took mine out gave me a little bit more power but a litttle bit more smoke and egts.....

 

Thanks. When the cover gets installed back on the pump, is the AFC lever supposed to be in a certain position or what? Really lost on this one....

 

You are indexed one spline too loose.

 

The spline for the throttle linkage? We put it back the way it was before disassembly. So what we should do is turn the flat head one spline counter clockwise (more spring tension) and we should be good?

 

Yep. Those little splines are hard to see, it's easy to wind up one off.

 

Got it!! So one spine will make it cut out like that?!! Why does it do that? Sorry to sound so lame....

 

it moves the metering sleeve beyond the spill port on the pump plunger. moving it far enough exposes the spill port and fuel that would be "trapped" inside the port, is then only spilled back into the pump housing. does the same thing when it defuels at 2650rpm (i think?). the governor flyweights are under centrifugal force and they push against the governor arm, which in turn, moves the metering sleeve on the pump plunger. inner workings can get confusing

 

Not enough spring tension to keep the governor from cutting the fuel off.

 

Good deal!! Thanks guys.I will let you all know how it goes!!

 

Almost forgot. So the AFC lever has no detents or anything? It doesnt need to be in a certain position for installation?

 

Re-installation of the spring and "top hat" are fairly straightforward, no tricks to it IIRC, except of course for keeping the spring in the top hat, and removing the fuel screw all the way until the cover is back on, so you don't break anything.

I used this write up:

http://ramchargercentral.com/index.php?topic=115104.0

And, of course, I re-indexed it incorrectly upon re-assembly ! Took a while to get it right.

You've no doubt noticed that the shaft that the spring attaches to, has gear teeth that engage other teeth in a hole in the lever. This hole with the teeth has tiny little marks in a circle around it just like a clock, and it's super easy to get everything re-indexed wrong because the marks are so small.

I hosed everything down with PB blaster, and I mean thoroughly, then wiped with a clean rag, to get rid of any and all dirt, to see the marks clearly and make sure the teeth are clean.

If it makes any sense, the little mark on the end of the spring shaft, that goes in the hole in the lever with the marks in a circle, should line up at about 10:00. Second mark from the right in most cases. I used needle-nose vise grips to rotate the shaft counter-clockwise from above, thus pulling on the spring, while holding the lever steady with my other hand, until they lined up properly, and then pulled up on the shaft with the needle-nose so the teeth would engage. Then you tighten the big Allen nut down on the shaft firmly, making sure that the teeth are still engaged and the shaft does not rotate out of the correct position in the lever.

It should start easily, idle smoothly, and respond to the throttle instantly with it indexed right, once the air is out of the system. You did bleed the system at the injectors after a procedure such as this, that involves opening and closing the injection pump, right ?

 

great info guys!


This is on my list of to projects. The spring is in the mail

 

It won't move to a position that would keep you from putting the pump together. Its position is unimportant.

 

Glad you got it together. best upgrade to the truck to date... Dont think I could drive another one a week before putting that srping in! let us know how it feels!