Did the carpet removal make much of a difference on the sound level? I would assume so but with the Cummins I'm wondering if it was so loud to begin with that maybe it was negligible?

 

I had ripped the front half of all the carpeting out to weld up the soft spots in the floorboards long before I ever drove in it. Removing the rear passenger and "truck" area carpeting made no noticeable different in inside noise... I did remove the top at the same time, so it is pretty hard to say really.
All I drive is old Cummins trucks so I am pretty used to it.

Between the wind and noise I think a day long road trip would involve ear plugs.

Tuned the waste gate to see 30PSI in O/D and lock up when on the skinny pedal.

 

I started a thread over on the 12V motor area about P-7100 pump tuning questions.
Seems like I am only getting throttle input out of the first 1/2 the throttle movement I have.

Any ideas are welcome.

 

Put 400 miles on it last week, including taking it to the Stowe antique car show over the weekend.

I dial in a little stuff after each trip out, but the rig has been fun to drive and gotten us to and from without any issue.
I still have a limited throttle on the top end of the throttle, but unless you REALLY want to be hot rodding it you would never know it.

 

Can't wait for my first passenger scary ride..

 

Last night after dinner I headed out to the shop to learn more about P-7100 pumps. I practiced how to adjust the governor arm on a pump I had that was on a motor out of a truck. Even after hours of reading up on how to adjust it on the web, not one person could say if rotating the screw in or out makes the arm move up or down on the fuel plate. Well screwing the adjustment screw in there makes the arm slide down the fuel plate. I found I needed to adjust the arm lower to rest at the bottom of the fuel plate curve at idle RPM.

One thing I also found while working on the pump. The air line that runs to the AFC was rotten behind one of the screw on end. I am going to guess that a lot of the air that was supposed to be heading to the AFC and moving it was being lost out that boost line. Which could have made the AFC not fuel anymore than what you would expect at minimal boost levels.

I am guessing it is going to have a lot more fuel on tap when I take it for the next test drive,

 

Okay, so I just got in a quick test drive between the rain and the end of summer to do list.

I do not know if the leaking AFC boost line was the fix for all of my low power / throttle issues, but it sure was a different beast now the AFC is moving / fueling when I build boost.

 

Nice work. I didn't know much about the P7100, but I learned a good bit with my Road Tractor build. The learning curve is a good bit steeper and more expensive than VE pumps I am used to.

 

BHD,
The learning curve is most certainly steeper as there are a dozen or more adjustments for more/less fuel. The small parts I did buy to install in the pump where not a lot more expensive than VE parts.
I used a #10 fuel plate, which was about the same cost as a fuel pin. The gov springs where $100 more but it was a lot more spring[s] than the little 366 spring the VE takes. I had the slightly bigger than stock 191 delivery valves, used on the shelf. The AFC spring was $30 more expensive than a VE one, but the kit came with 2 different springs to aid in fine tuning. I splurged on a $50 adjustable OFV to keep the head pressure up at the P-7100 pump. The rest of the pump modifications / tricks where more elbow grease mods than spending $$.

With the work load and near constant drizzle the past few days I have not gotten out for another test and tune ride. I am hoping to get out for a good ride this weekend. I will update when the dust settles...or is that when the smoke clears?

 

Wish you could have sent some of that drizzle down here. We're getting pretty dry.

 

I got some miles on the RC last weekend. I loaded up the ATV in the back and headed towards the NH / VT/ Canadian border where a buddy owns a camp. The plan was to hit the trails, put on some miles and have lunch out on the trail.
About an hour into the trip, I tested WOT from a stop sign. Moments later I was greeted with a new loud, high pitched noise. I decided to turn around and head home rather than risk a breakdown in the north east kingdom of VT.

On the way home I noted that the truck would run fine in all gears, but if I added any throttle and the boost got over 10 PSI the noise would come back. It was LOUD.

After being worried that the auto transmission had internal issues....I decided I would start with testing the air to air cooler system. I pulled out my boost tester and put air to the turbo, boots, tubes and I/C - all still bolted together. Soon enough I was listening to that same high pitched loud whistle. Looks like I could have tightened up a boot clamp a bit more during final assembly.

While I have it in the shop next to the tool chest, I am going to re torque the ARP head bolts

 

I like those easy fixes! Good it wasn't the auto, I got over 200K on mine before I had to do anything.

Bummer your trail time didn't happen...

 

Me too. Easy and cheap fixes for the win!

Oh I didn't let it ruin a day on the trails. On our way back home my girlfriend and I parked along the ATV trails about 30 minutes from home and rolled the quad out. Ended up putting 90 miles on, it was more local than expected, but still a great time.
It was the next day before I had time work on and locate the issue on the RC.

 

Get it hot before Torquing those arps.

 

Wow, 90 miles seems like a lot of exploring/fun in one day!

Had to look up "Northeast Kingdom", never heard of that before. Who would have thought that Vermont had volcanic islands!