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1st Gen. Ram - All TopicsDiscussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.
NOPE. I have a translator. He's an 8 generation Chinese import who speaks both dog and Engrish. He translated what they were saying, and I just posted it.
Yup. Chinese import, no doubt. No sight in his right eye, only a few teeth, and can barely hear, but still kicking along.
Chinese import, no doubt. No sight in his right eye, only a few teeth, and can barely hear, but still kicking along.
My late, lamented Peke-a-Poos had that ability also...They were great chickbait also, until the ladies figured out they had to take us all as a package deal......Ben
My late, lamented Peke-a-Poos had that ability also...They were great chickbait also, until the ladies figured out they had to take us all as a package deal......Ben
we've had several breeds of dogs, over the years:
Mutts
Beagles,
Shepherds
Labs,
Husky
Cavalier King Charles
And our "Chee-zoo", Mocha.
Loved them all
Each have their own plus and minus attributes.
Mocha the "Chee-zoo" has made me smile, laugh, giggle, or belly laugh, every single day since he was dumped on us at age 11, back in Sept. of 2019.
This little chit has brought me more laughter and joy than anything else ever in my life.
I'm pretty impressed with those Athletic Brews, pretty tasty. If I didn't know they were NA I'd probably not suspect it - until after finishing a couple any way...
We had to put down my rescue dobe after Thanksgiving due to kidney disease. Still missing him something fierce.
She is taking a year off and working full time in the field that interests her. So she is getting up early in the morning and working M-F. She is really liking working with kids in the early learning field.
So, Ollie sent more photos, and I'll try to organize as best as possible.
. Engine put back together, head installed, fuel system installed. Cracked timing case bung where mounting bolt was previously attached. Looks to have been ripped out by the KDP pin falling out, and being craped against it / pinned against it with the timing gear. KDP found in the oil pan. Damaged Timing cover Location of the cracked timing case bung that was ripped off.
Note in the KDP pictures the scrape mark in both the case and the cover. The KDP was trapped and the gear slowly dragged it down, gouging the case and cover as it went, till it lodged up against that bolt hole bung. Eventually the gear wore a groove and caught it breaking the aluminum case and popping a small hole in the case cover. Both the KDP and the chunk of case amazingly made it safely into the oil pan where they where found. They had worn off the paint on the inside of the pan so they had obviously been there a while.
I used a different used timing cover and the hole in the case was tapped deeper and a longer stock bolt used to seal things back up.
I also red loc tited the 3 case bolts I could get to and re torqued them down.
The well worn KDP was tapped back home. Then I pinned the aluminum timing case around the hole so it was not tempted to go for another wide ride around the gears.
The 2nd shot is the motor all hooked up to a radiator and a oil PSI gauge, ready for a test run on the shop lift before install. We looped the power steering lines, coolant lines ETC so it was all full of fluids. It ran 80 PSI of oil at idle. The truck idled at about 750 RPM which is perfect, as I had messed with Gov. springs and several other pump adjustments that can change the idle characteristics. It also seemed to return to idle smoothly after some throttle blips, which I have seen problems with after some Gov. spring installs on a P-pumped motor.
We ran it for about 5 or 6 minutes before dropping it back on the ground and attaching the 47 RH transmission and hooking up the transmission lines.
Then it was stabbed into the frame.
That was the last night of Wrench Week.
The 2nd shot is the motor all hooked up to a radiator and a oil PSI gauge, ready for a test run on the shop lift before install. We looped the power steering lines, coolant lines ETC so it was all full of fluids. It ran 80 PSI of oil at idle. The truck idled at about 750 RPM which is perfect, as I had messed with Gov. springs and several other pump adjustments that can change the idle characteristics. It also seemed to return to idle smoothly after some throttle blips, which I have seen problems with after some Gov. spring installs on a P-pumped motor.
We ran it for about 5 or 6 minutes before dropping it back on the ground and attaching the 47 RH transmission and hooking up the transmission lines.
Then it was stabbed into the frame.
That was the last night of Wrench Week.
Love the efficient way of keeping the body up in the air, and working below. It's like when I'm fixing my washing machine. My dog hovers above me, and makes sure I'm feeling like "oh there's a big hunk above me, and the dog breath and funky tongue licks are all the worthwhile."
or so he thinks. Darn Mutley.
So, you have the entire trans / engine all together, which makes for an easier install, I would assume. How do you keep it all balanced ? Are those straps holding holding the trans side up in the air how you raised it up, or did you get it up there after the engine was up at install height ?
I like the mock up using the lift - engine hanging on one arm and radiator hanging off the other. So when suspended like that, how much does the engine move/shake/twist?
Love the efficient way of keeping the body up in the air, and working below. It's like when I'm fixing my washing machine. My dog hovers above me, and makes sure I'm feeling like "oh there's a big hunk above me, and the dog breath and funky tongue licks are all the worthwhile."
or so he thinks. Darn Mutley.
So, you have the entire trans / engine all together, which makes for an easier install, I would assume. How do you keep it all balanced ? Are those straps holding holding the trans side up in the air how you raised it up, or did you get it up there after the engine was up at install height ?
After pulling and installing a lot of 12Vs, I have tried many ways to do it to come up with my favorite. The way shown in the pictures seems the safest way to do it and can be done one person.
I roll the completely assembled powertrain under the shop lift using the dolly and the engine hoist. I then lower the lift, with the Ramcharger tub still on it down about 1/2 way. I hook up the straps and a heavy duty tie down strap under the transmission right by the transmission mount. This supports and makes minor adjustments easy. The motor and part of the transmission is supported by the yellow engine hoist.
I lift up the hoist and the shop lift together to make enough room to roll the frame under the powertrain. Once the frame is in place, I can lower the powertrain down slowly and easily as needed to land where it needs to go.
This offers me the opportunity to lower the shop lift to adjust the back end independently of the engine hoist side. This makes it so I can check clearance of things, like starters, oil pans, cross members, power steering pumps/ box, engine / transmission mounts, harmonic balancer ETC. No rushing around trying to get things lined up as something swings about wildly.
It is basically a take in the load leveler for an engine hoist to adjust the angle, just way more robust.
This way I do not have to try and roll around a 1200# motor on an engine hoist 5 feet in the air to get it in the engine bay. I have learned a truck frame on wheels rolls a lot more predictable and easily than a top heavy engine hoist. I also feel a lot safer with my hands under a powertrain supported by two different attachment points, rather then the powertrain just swinging around on one.
Assembling the powertrain on the shop floor before installing it makes getting everything lined up and torqued down a lot easier than once it is in the frame.