90 power ram

my 1990 just did this but it would not start there was a fuse that went bad in my dash so i just let a shop wire one in with a fuse box under the dash was a expansive fix but i can get to it any time i want

thanks shane

grim

will this actually work?
can you reach the abs sensor from insidewith the cover off the diff? seems like it would be behind the gears.

schamran

Didn't read the whole thing, but check the obvious. Fuses! Sometimes the simplest things get me. lol

maybe368

I don't know if this helps, and it is not a Dodge 70, so it does not show the sensor, but maybe you can tell...Mark

grim

anyone else have any ideas how to get the ABS sensor out. you definatley cant reach it from inside the diff. and i dont really know how to take the gears apart to get at it.

wannadiesel

Drill a hole in it and put a screw in there so you can pry it out? You might even have enough clearance on your W250 to use a slide hammer.

BearKiller

Simple then, un-hook the warning light from the system, then power it with a wire that is spliced into the starter-solenoid START wire.

If it needs remain ON for a few seconds, then have that solenoid wire trigger a delay timer.


Most of this required "safety" foolishness is just something to cause trouble and does nothing to keep anyone safe.

rlyons

What state are you in? I want to make sure I don't move there. Here in Florida we no longer have any inspection at all.

grim

thanx everyone once again for a your help.

i managed to get the stupid seized sensor out. I was already trying the dilling a hole method but seems to just push it in further. So i took the diff cover off. the sensor is almost completely behind the gears. but i could see a tiny little corner of it. so i got a long narrow screwdriver, grinded off the end so it was round, and bent it to the exact shape needed to reach over and down behind the gear. then after a couple hours or hitting it and repositioning i destroyed the bottom half / got it out. then i spent another hour cleaning the fragments off the gears. Here is the stupid thing afterwards.
Lots of copper in there.
With the new ABS sensor. the lights came on and stayed on the first time i drove. then the second they came on for the test , then stayed off. sometimes while driving now they will come on but usually go off. Now im feeling a clunking or sudden hard drop in the brake pedal while braking a low speeds. is this just my ABS kickin in now that it works? or do i have another problem?

Also i was attempting to fix my tail/dash lights by removing the headlamp switch. Noticed they came on as i was moving the fuse box. so it must be a loose wire somewhere or bad connection under the dash. but they are working for now and hope they work during my next inspection.

maybe368

That is exactly what I had pictured when I suggested removing the cover to drive it out. Glad you got it. There are many threads here dealing with the abs light, try a search and see if any apply...Mark

NE frmhnd

The one lead for the radio fuse was replaced in my fuse block, if it doesn't come on I just tap the panel that the fuse block hooks into and the radio comes on.

thrashingcows

Another thought on getting around the ABS light coming on and then going off on the dash display. Chrysler used a small metal/tin thermal relay to keep ignition lamps and other warning lights on for a few seconds. I wired up a "Fasten Seatbelt" warning light in my 68 Coronet years ago using one of these.

Here's what the unit looks like,



I believe you ground one side, then one goes to a power source. For the ABS light you would need a short power source, so something that comes on for a few seconds then shuts off, this will provide the power to the thermal relay. Then the last terminal will go to the ABS light and once the power source has shut off the ABS light will then light up for a few seconds and go out.

Just a thought on maybe getting around things?