I have a 93 W350 with a blown gas motor we're looking to convert to a diesel (per previous thread) - I found a 93 cummins doner truck that should be a perfect match, so I've got the basics figured out. Truck has something like 150k and is supposed to be in good running condition. As far as I know it's stock.

I'm going to go through the motor while I have it out and am planning to turn it up some. This will be the girlfriend's truck mainly used for light to moderate trailer towing and such so we're not going for anything crazy but a but over stock would be nice. I may or may not do a full rebuild on the motor depending on what it looks like - not that hard if I have it out, but if it's all in good shape I woln't mess with it.

I was originally thinking I'd put an HX35W on it for improved spool time, but after reading some things it sounds like the stock non wg may be better - any thoughts? If I do go HX35W what housing? I know there's several different size turbine housings, the 7 vs 8 blade compressor and the HY35 with the smaller turbine - which would be best, and any to avoid? The truck is an automatic.

How does an exhaust brake work with the automatic? Would like to fit one on this truck but not sure how it'll work. I have one on my ford and love it, however that's a manual truck - seems like the torque converter would just slip on the auto.

Reason I ask is I found an add for a HX35/manifold/pac brake that I'm thinking of getting. Craigslist ads not allowed on DTR It's far enough away and pricey enough I don't want to get it unless it'll work. Will setup fit/work/be worth it?

Thanks.

 

The exhaust brake will not work on your auto. They only work on autos designed for use with them mostly newer stuff.

 

The exhaust brake will work but is it going to stop you when your towing ? No. The pacbrake on my w 250 seems to help me maintain speed going down a hill unloaded and out of od , but without a lock up trans or a manual I dont think its worth it . The old man PO got talked into it by a scamshop .

 

That's about what I figured. Has to interlock with the lockup to be worth anything on an auto.

Mine on the ford doesn't stop the truck either, but it sure makes going down hill a heck of a lot nicer.

Thought on the turbo? Is it worth trying to upgrade or just stick with the stock one?

 

I was debating HY35 vs HX35 on my manual truck awhile back. Mostly because I could pick up the HY for $100ish. One of the other members here (i forget who) related his experience with an HY on a similar truck. He said it screamed around town and on entrance ramps but ran out of air around 50mph due to the 9cm exhaust housing. He said it spooled FAST around town but dogged at mid/high RPM. I think that's why the HY is more popular with the rice rocket crowd.

Here is the link to that thread:

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/forums/1st-gen-ram-all-topics-93/hy-35-opinions-320983/

 

Turbo upgrades are definitely worth doing. HX35 or the GDS (pricey) upgrades for your stock H1c. A good HX35 costs about half of the upgrade about $600 for the upgrade parts.

Dodge Diesel Turbocharger Parts | GillettDiesel.com

 

the absolute best bang for your buck turbo is the HE351cw. These things support 600hp in common rail trucks and will handle pretty good fueling upgrades in a VE 1st gen truck. A few have made in the high 300 hp range with the he351. I'd guess i'm around 250-260 with stock injectors and tuning. For ~$400 installed, you cannot beat it.

HX35 is barely an upgrade and upgrading your H1C is just a bandaid. HE351cw will make more power with the same fuel as either of those options. Will run cooler and spool faster at the same time.

 

good luck finding a good used HE351cw and it isn't exactly a bolt on. I know some guys that have some band aids that have ran pretty good for quite sometime now with no problems.

 

I looked at doing the HE351cw instead of an HX35 but didn't want the hassle. The HX35 bolts right up. I rebuilt an HX35 and added a GDS 60mm compressor wheel and housing with a 14cm wastegated housing. They are pretty easy to rebuild. I haven't been able to run it yet as the truck is still in the "project" phase. LOL.
The other problem where I'm at is everyone wants $3-500 for a beat, high mileage he351cw if you can find one.

 

That should work out really good.

 

they're around. and the band aid will "run pretty good" but you're polishing a turd. its a 40 year old turbo design. just throwing a bigger compressor wheel on it is not the cure, it's a band aid.

so wait, lets do some math here. you spent $475 on a 14cm gated housing, $85 on a rebuild kit, $285 on the 60mm compressor, and lets just say $250 for a used hx35. that's nearly $1,100 on a turbo that is outdone by a stock he351cw. for $1100 you could've went out and bought a nice, new, BW S300 and been light years ahead of your old, antiquated HX-35. i'm not telling you how to spend your money, but you certainly shouldn't be giving turbo advice.

 

Well a 40 year old turbo on a 40 year old engine seems to work. If you want modern buy a new truck. air hasn't changed in 40 years, At least to my knowledge. You can get 300 to 350 horsepower from a HX35. so what do you gain.

 

Kids with their new fangled ideas.

 

I'm not saying an HX35 is a bad idea by any means, but if you are going to be "upgrading" the stock turbo or hx35, I tend to agree with the above.

 

We can't stay in a vacuum. Wanting a better turbo doesn't mean wanting a newer truck. With no other changes, an he351 will make more power than an hx35. While spooling faster and running cooler. I went from 24psi max to 35psi max by only changing from hx to he351. Same fueling mods. It's about making power more efficiently.