1993 Ram Cummins 3500 brake proportioning valve ?
Is it possible?
I am with you guys, is it possible that the ECM is opening the RWAL valve? This thought has eaten at me that we are chasing symptoms of a stroke in the brain. I saw that A1 Cardone is offering remans at Rockauto. What do yall think? ...Mark
Well after posting I went to their site and bought one for a little less that 150 including 35 dollar core. It is truly the last component of my system...I'll let you know what happens...
Well after posting I went to their site and bought one for a little less that 150 including 35 dollar core. It is truly the last component of my system...I'll let you know what happens...
One thing I forgot to mention. If you bench bleed our MC you can screw one up very easy. I bleed mine but after i put it on the truck, just use little bleed hoses it comes with and pump pedal. They have a sharp edge inside, if bleed it in vice with screw driver method , it take little effort to damage the seals inside.
This is one of these problems that makes you want to buy something with a warranty lol. I hate to say it but I had to replace my master three time before I didnt get one that leaked out of the rear seal. I finally ordered a unit from bendix and it hasnt leaked a drop even around the top seal. I know other guys here have gotten bad masters too...
The M/cylinders were brand new , but I noticed both were made overseas in Italy . Anymore parts outlets are buying stuff as cheap as possible to compete for lowest prices .... unfortunately you wind up chasing your tail sometimes because you never know if the the new part is defective or the same problem still exists elsewhere . I like to use OEM wherever possible but they are so expensive and the customers howl .
Ditto on the reman stuff comment . Who knows where they rebuild stuff anymore and the quality of the service parts they use .
Ditto on the reman stuff comment . Who knows where they rebuild stuff anymore and the quality of the service parts they use .
to countrygent
I noticed In Your pic that the hoses comeing off the booster at the y one goes down to a valve deal and the other one is going towards the driver fender what does it connect to mine has been disconnected and plugged with a bolt.
The hose going toward the fender used to go to a low vacuum warning sensor under the drivers side hood hinge. Look for a small circular sensor bolted to the fender. It will have a two wire electrical connector and most likely a hole where the tube broke off that goes to the plugged hose.
I have always had problems with not the best braking on my 93 350. My buddy who used to work in Dodge parts at the time said they had sold a number of the pro-valves. I replaced the master,booster, front stuff and rear stuff. Being old school and finding out as you did, not available on the pro-valve or ABS unit. NOTE: that is one thing you did not mention. When bleeding, you need to bleed the ABS unit before the rear shoes. ANYWAY, I gutted the ABS, took off the pro-valve and installed a manual proportioning valve from SPEEDWAY AUTOMOTIVE. Being a disc/drum system they say to install a 10psi residual valve in the line going to the rear and a 2psi for the front discs, also from Speedway. This is stuff rodders use on there vehicles. Got a good improvement and I can get under the hood and adjust how much braking I want up front. PURPLE THINGY-Man. Pro-valve, BLUE THINGY-2psi residual valve. 10psi valve mounted in the rear. THIS IS OF MY OWN DOING AND NOT TO BE GOSPEL. Take it or leave it. I would say if you went the bone yard route, places like Barely Used Auto parts, could tell you the interchange of the part. I would guess that a 250 and a 350 might be different because of the weight of the vehicle. Maybe not.
That smaller line goes over to a vacuum switch that turns on the dash "brake" light...Mark
Find the fix?
Hey, did you find the fix for this?!? I've been going through the same thing for months now?
Yes at times the pedal seems firm . But a lot of the time it feels like the master cylinder is bypassing and the pedal sinks away . Or a spongy feel like air trapped in a line . I've bled with a partner and with a pressure bleeder , got good stream of fluid at all wheels . Have followed the procedure to a T and bench bled master on bench and cracked fittings all the way down the system to bleed until I get to the bleeders . And yes I bled the RWAL first . I never get any air out either after the initial bleed out . I dont know if booster will hold vacuum for a complete hour , but has good vacuum and new check valve came with the booster . It seems to be working good .
In all my years wrenching I've never seen a bad proportioning valve to be honest and it seems like it would just effect bias to front and rear wheels NOT make pedal spongy ....... but theres not much left to try . Has anyone here had a bad one ..... what were the symptoms ?
I did check pushrod clearance at M/C to booster too . Even added some clearance to be sure piston is returning all the way . And I push in that pin on back of the proportioning valve too when I bleed .
Appreciate all comments , I figure with all you Dodge truck owners someone has been through this before and I'm at the right place .
Things like this make you hate being a mechanic
Thanks again !
Bob
In all my years wrenching I've never seen a bad proportioning valve to be honest and it seems like it would just effect bias to front and rear wheels NOT make pedal spongy ....... but theres not much left to try . Has anyone here had a bad one ..... what were the symptoms ?
I did check pushrod clearance at M/C to booster too . Even added some clearance to be sure piston is returning all the way . And I push in that pin on back of the proportioning valve too when I bleed .
Appreciate all comments , I figure with all you Dodge truck owners someone has been through this before and I'm at the right place .
Things like this make you hate being a mechanic

Thanks again !
Bob
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