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1993 Dodge PCM

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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 02:19 PM
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1993 Dodge PCM

Hey folks,
My 1993 Dodge had been parked for 20 months . I had to move it around a few times in my driveway in those 20 months and she always started no problem , not even a weak battery .Now she's had some much needed drivers side floor repairs done and I also installed a new carpet .
Of course I made sure that the windshield and vent leaks were taken care of , so now she's back on the road .
Now here's my problem....(s) .
I drove it for a couple of days and had no problems at all . Then one day the a/c didn't work , but the cruise control did . Then I noticed that the battery wasn't charging . I installed one of those small external regulators and that took care of the charging problem . Now my a/c still doesn't work , and my cruise does work except that it keeps speeding up , rather quickly I might add. My wait to start (glow plug timer) seems to work fine .
I've read and reread many posts here including a lot of the sticky .So I did the pin test to see if my PCM had power and ground and it all checked out ok which leads me to believe that my PCM needs to be replaced .
I already have the trans OD rigged up with a pressure switch so that works .
Is there any way to rig up the a/c and cruise without the PCM ?
I read some posts here that some people were not really satisfied with the results of having their PCM rebuilt .
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 02:33 PM
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My check engine light , which does work , is not on , and the only trouble code is 41 which relates back to the alternator which has been taken care of .
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 06:42 PM
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should be Easy on driver's side fender well there is 3 relay's switch them around or even just put a reg bOSCH relay in and your a/c should work .
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Old Aug 13, 2013 | 12:44 AM
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Originally Posted by simplysmn
should be Easy on driver's side fender well there is 3 relay's switch them around or even just put a reg bOSCH relay in and your a/c should work .
Yup as he says...one is for the A/C, one is the starter relay, and the other controls helps control the alterantor.

Replace the two that are the same...WOT (a/c wide open throttle) relay and the Shut down Relay (quickly runs things on and off to help regulate charge)...the odd one out is the starter relay.
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Old Aug 14, 2013 | 08:39 AM
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I tried switching the realys today but the ac still wont turn on .
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Old Aug 14, 2013 | 09:15 AM
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Now I'm getting more trouble codes .
41 45 and 11 .
I'm starting to think I just have a bad crank speed sensor .
That would cause the problems I'm having wouldn't it ?
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Old Aug 14, 2013 | 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by truckerick
Now I'm getting more trouble codes .
41 45 and 11 .
I'm starting to think I just have a bad crank speed sensor .
That would cause the problems I'm having wouldn't it ?
Could well be, but it could also be any one of a number of contacts or grounds. Since it has set for so long, you might very methodically clean all grounds and inspect all connections.

I just went nuts finding a very similar case with my 1990 Ramcharger, had code 41, wouldn't charge. Finally found it in the connector where the main harnesses splice together on the passenger side.

I don't know how many local gurus told me my PCM was toast.......thankfully I had a spare known good one to prove it wrong.
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Old Aug 14, 2013 | 07:11 PM
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From: Prince George, BC
Originally Posted by truckerick
I tried switching the realys today but the ac still wont turn on .
With your alternator and A/C not working I might suspect that both those relays are toast. So swapping them might net your the same results regardless.

If you have a junk yard close to you with some older mopars you can grab the relays from a 93 Plymouth Sundance, or acclaim. The relays you want are on the drivers side inner fender...just in front of the shock tower. There are 3 relays there. Two of them are exact replacements for the relays on your truck. One relay is the starter relay, the other will work on the A/C or Alternator. The third relay will not plug into anything we have.....so leave it.

Either bring one of your old relays with you, or do like I did and take a few pics with my phone and use those to identify the right relay needed. I paid $5 each for the relays....compared to the $30+ I paid for a brand new one from the auto parts store.
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Old Aug 14, 2013 | 07:21 PM
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I had some of the same problems you are having and a few different ones. It turned out to be the crank sensor. Buy 1 from cummins and not Dodge, you should be able to find the part numbers in the stickies
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Old Aug 16, 2013 | 07:59 PM
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From: Niagara Region , Canada
Originally Posted by thrashingcows
With your alternator and A/C not working I might suspect that both those relays are toast. So swapping them might net your the same results regardless.
Thanks for the input but I think I have to disagree .
Since the middle relay is for the starter and it starts , and I switched the starter and a/c relays and it still starts , I'd say both relays are good .

Does anyone know if there is a way to test the crank sensor ?
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Old Aug 16, 2013 | 09:21 PM
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Also check the crank sensor wires where they turn down from the top of the engine toward the crank. They often rub and create an intermittent short. A little plastic wire loom will solve the problem it that's where it is.
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Old Aug 16, 2013 | 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by truckerick
Thanks for the input but I think I have to disagree .
Since the middle relay is for the starter and it starts , and I switched the starter and a/c relays and it still starts , I'd say both relays are good .

Does anyone know if there is a way to test the crank sensor ?
I believe it's a hall effect sensor, so one wire is ground, 1 is power (5V I think) and the other toggles up and down or down and up as the notch in the crank damper passes by.
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 11:20 AM
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From: Niagara Region , Canada
@ totallyrad , my CPS wires already have a nice plastic loom protecting them .


So I found detailed instructions on how to test the CPS which I found out from a Cummins dealer is actually called a speed sensor .
This picture shows how I connected the sensor to my harness .
Those are just 14 gauge crimp ons . They slide right over the sensor pins .

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Black /Blue tracer is the ground . My ground is good
Tan/yellow is the power feed . I have 9 volts there which is within spec.
Gray/black is the signal . Only 1.3 volts here . It should be at least
5 volts when the sensor is on an air gap.


So I guess I'm going to order a speed sensor and see if it fixes my problem .
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Old Sep 7, 2013 | 11:57 AM
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Update...
I installed the new crank sensor and now my a/c works again , I have the alternator hooked up without the external regulator and it's working fine , the only thing still not working right is the cruise control . I can set it but the speed gradually increases . Any one have experience with cruise that speeds up ?
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Old Sep 7, 2013 | 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by truckerick
Update...
I installed the new crank sensor and now my a/c works again , I have the alternator hooked up without the external regulator and it's working fine , the only thing still not working right is the cruise control . I can set it but the speed gradually increases . Any one have experience with cruise that speeds up ?
Mine has a mind of it's own most of the time. I traced it down to bad switches on the steering wheel. Unfortunately they seem to be made of unobtainium, so I have to build up a rat shack substitute.

I hope to set up an overhead console for most of my peripheral stuff, and the cruise switches will eventually go there.

Here's the continuity test chart.

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