Hey guy I got a 92 w250 with about 260k on the cummins it's an auto. It definitely needs some help, the po put a hood stack, it needs brakes, tires, and the interior redone. I don't trust this guys wiring so that's all gonna go it has a boost and egt gauge. I have looked over the major DIY sticky already and I'm probably gonna be asking a lot of questions. First on is any advice on doing the brakes and entire brake system? I'll be posting pics here in a bit thanks for any advice on anything else!

 

welcome from the west. you are in the right place for sure.

 

Thanks for the welcome, a little about me I'm 19 from Albuquerque New Mexico and go to The university of New Mexico full time and I'm studying mechanical engineering and I work at an oil change place! I'm still learning quite a bit on diesel and gasoline and cars in general but I figured I learn quite a lot from all you guys.

 

There is a lot of collective experience here. I think more than most other message boards put together. Lots of nice helpful people too.

 

Welcome to the Board...Mikey?

Nice to see you guns taking up the challenge of keeping these old beast on the roads...Atta boy!

Brakes....well I would advise routing around the RWAL valve...and disconnecting the black ABS control box behind the glove box.

Then start following the thread sin the sticky...glad you've already been there. And if you have any additional questions, or concerns let us know.

 

So I do already have a question I'm looking at brakes online and I'm not to sure if I have the 3500 or 4500 front axle or the full or semi floating axle or the 12x2.5 or 12x3 ! I plan on buying brakes from autozone unless anyone knows of a better deal?

 

4500 is the Dana 60, full floating. Almost 100 percent sure it is the 12X3.

I always check out Rockauto.com for parts, even if I don't need them right away, sometimes you can get a screaming deal. I sat on a set of Raybestos super stopper pads for my 97 for 6 months because I got the normally 60 plus dollar pads for something crazy like 18 bucks on closeout. They normally are cheaper, sometimes really so.

 

You r rear brakes will likely be 12x2.5...but most guys upgrade to the 12x3 and the 1 1/8" wheel cylinders. The cost difference between the stock 12x2.5 and 1" wheel cylinders...and the one tin stuff is pennies. So it makes no sense to run the smaller stuff.

 

If you are going to run a 3/4 ton truck empty most of the time, you may not want to both run the 1 1/8" wheel cylinders AND disconnect the ABS. The bigger wheel cylinders shift the brake balance to the rear a little, and can cause the rear to lock up prematurely in an empty truck. Out in the southwest, you might actually find that the ABS system still works. For most of us, though, the ABS is not worth the effort to keep in working condition.

Front calipers, discs, pads & keys are the same as a SRW 1986 K30, which sometimes helps finding the right part.

Take some time to read through the stickies though -- all of this stuff has been covered.

Enjoy the truck!

 

It's going to be ran empty most of the time. Just a daily, haul the occasional load, and won't be wheeled too hard or nothing like that. I also just installed some new carpet from Walmart and some carpet padding from the sticky as well. It was not bad for my first job. I'll try and post some pics of the job as well

 

So I took off the old shoes. Man were those things done for! Same with the drums! I'm having trouble piecing it all back together, anyone have a pic of how it all reassembled? I also went to do the kip this weekend and it was gone!

 

Before....



After....

 

Oh thank you a lot! Would you also happen to know what size the brake lines are to the rear I snapped both sides replacing the wheel cylinders.

 

Take the old line down with you when you go for new ones, to be sure...but I believe they are 5/16 line.

 

brake lines are 3/16's.