I’ve downloaded the complete Skyjacker catalog as well as spoken to customer service. Skyjacker makes four kits for the 1992/93 W250/350. The one I’m considering is D192CDKS which lifts the front 1.0 inch and the rear 0.5 inch (i.e., essentially no lift; OEM height). Skyjacker spring numbers are D100CS (front) and DR60S (rear). Both these units have only five leaves. The Skyjackers would eliminate my OEM 6.0-inch lift block in the rear.

Losing the lift blocks while maintaining OEM ride height means the Skyjackers involve a SERIOUS arch increase over that of the OEM springs. In a post several months ago, Ace noted his experience with the Skyjacker rear springs and no lift blocks:
“Sqautted way too much under load and wallowed around the corners like the back end wanted to go in front ALL the time. Scary…”

I’m determined to soften my ride – my poor truck is beating itself to death every time I hit a bump. No wonder the cowls crack; I’m surprised the windshield hasn’t split. Would a few of you please weigh in and tell me what you think of the Skyjacker “Softride” technology and what are the positives and negatives of replacing my springs (and eliminating the lift blocks).

Thanks in advance.

 

I've always been told to stay away from softride kits, they will start to sag within no time. Especially on a diesel with all the weight up front.

 

BHD has 4" front springs and 6" rear springs under his truck (skyjacker). Said it made the ride 20 times better. I don't think his is sagging. But time will only tell.

 

I run the six inch kit and it has not sagged at all. I have towed and put it under load and it is still perfect. Of course when the truck is lifted it will handle differently. My truck rides better than stock I think.

 

I have 4 inch in front 6inch in rear no blocks. The back has always been good, however I did have to get the front springs re-arched mine is a 1990 don't know if that helps, rides pretty good though.

 

A little off topic but when installing the 6 inch lift did you have to extend your driveshafts?

 

I have a 6" lift, and the softride springs ride a little nicer than stock, but its still a truck. They really squat under load, so for towing i wouldn't really suggest them. On the other hand, getting rid of those lift blocks would help a lot with axle hop. I had to get a spacer to go between the front drive shaft and the transfer case flange, but the rear was fine. On the front I also had to clearence aka grind the crap out of the joints on the drive shaft to keep it from binding. the angle is so steep that I'm afraid to drive it over 35 with the front hubs locked because of the vibrations.

 

maybe off topic but wy not install a kelderman air ride in it I have almost
700k on my truck and it has saved it from all the cracks, a my back loves it.
my .02

 

Rebal:
1. Do you have still have the OEM lift blocks along with the Keldermanns?
2. Did you install the Keldermanns yourself? If not, did you find an installer closer than Oskaloosa, Iowa?

 

I have the D292CDKS, I had hoped the 2" front lift would level the truck. Well in order to level our trucks you need 4" of lift in the front, 0" rear. I decided to do a combination of 2" lift springs and a 2" ramcharger central style lift to avoid the tall arch in the front. This required 2" longer rear shackles on the front. I think these longer shackles seriously improved the front suspension movement. Secondly just getting ALL of the bolts free and moving so the suspension actually moves is another key. Almost all of mine were frozen and no longer pivoting. I think my truck rides better then a 1 ton leaf sprung truck should ride.





In the rear I went with the kits skyjackers which remove the blocks and also the bump stops, not good. I installed timbren rubber springs to replace the missing bump stops. They were a universal kit, you can see the angle bracket bolted on the frame in the picture with the hour glass shaped rubber spring. I had to adjust the height of the timbren bottom plate by half from the one picture. I moved 55 80lbs bag of concrete and it was squatting but not bad.



Finally, tires are key as well. If your not a dually find some D-rated larger sized tires which can handle the loads you carry. My example, I went with a D-rated 35x12.5 which are rated for 3400 lbs load. This taller tire has a more compliant sidewall.

 

The Skyjacker springs DO ride better than stock, as far as I can tell. But the tradeoff is that big arch in back. You need to do things to compensate for that inherent design limitation if you want it to be an effective working truck. Just the springs are fine for a play truck or strictly offroad. I believe that is what a large portion of the Skyjacker crowd is probably doing with them anyway.

Mine works good with a swaybar and Timbrens. I'll probably go to a better shock as well when the time comes. But it is way better now than with just the Skyjackers and Nitro shocks it had when I got it. I have hauled >1ton of gravel in the bed no problem and it actually handles and sticks to the road fairly well for a pickup.

 

Another option for you would be to use the new rear replacement springs and then use a small 2" block to have it more level when loaded.

 

That would mean stacking the blocks which is a no no and a nightmare.

 

Did not say to stack blocks but when you use the replacemnt skyjacker springs without lift block use a small block to give you the loaded height being level with the front.