I found an “absolutely rust free” 1972 dodge D150 near me. I own a 1992 W250. Before I get too excited, I am wondering if someone can tell me what parts are interchangeable and what parts aren’t? I’d like to swap my bed, cab, and fenders at least. If there’s a way to make the D150 frame work for a W250 that would be a huge bonus too. I’m open to suggestions before I spend some money. Thank you.

 

Swapping over the sheetmetal you want to use, is pretty straight forward other than the cab.
The cab you will find uses different wiring harnesses, which go through different holes in the firewall. The gauges, dash surround, ETC is also different.
The manual 5 speed pedals in your '92 will not just bolt in and work in that '72. The '92 uses clutch hydraulics, The '72 uses linkage for the clutch. They also go through different holes in the firewall. Read more drilling, which will end up with also moving the bulkhead for the wiring harness to make room for the clutch hydros..
The D-150 will likely also have a different, smaller transmission hump for a 2wd. Cutting and welding in a 4x4 hump will be needed.

Using the frame of a D150 under a W250 will be a LOT of work and at the end of the day the D150 frame will be weaker as it is made with thinner metal for the frame. To even make it work, you will need to cut off ALL the front 2wd suspension. Then pull and swap out the engine crossmember for a 4x4 one. Then swap over all the 4x4 suspension after drilling holes for it in the frame. Finally you will also need too move the steering box to the 4x4 location.

If you want to check out some of the stuff needed to pull this off. I have a build tread on a '78 Pop top Ramcharger I am using a 12V in.

 

LOL_ this is a timely question- i have a 72 perfect cab I will be putting on a 92 gasser frame to add my 92 dually CTD and running gear on. I will make it fit, one way or another.

 

This is great info, as I am in the parts collecting phase of this project still before I start- though I jumped the gun a bit and started the body work on the cab/body stuff. I am seriously considering swapping it from auto to manual, it's the hardest part of the decision. Mine is an original 4whl/4speed cab.

 

Ollie = human encyclopedia for Dodge trucks..

Haha....

 

This is very helpful, thank you. The main issue with my current cab is rust around the rain guard/drip rail, which I understand is very difficult to repair. That being said, even if all I get is a rust free bed and fenders it might be worth it.

 

How hard would it be to cut the top off the donor and weld it on to your old lower?

 

+1 on the D150 frame being light/weak.

The 92 gas frame may also not be as beefy as at the 92 diesel. I my experience, gas is a 6" or 7" channel and the 91-93 diesel is 8".

 

Not only the height of the frame differs, but the vary thickness of the metal the frame is made from also differs.

 

This link has frame particulars listed for 1975 model year.

https://www.ramchargercentral.com/th.../#post-1260585

My trucks over the years suggest the data holds true through '91, while the 91.5-93 diesels were a taller section.

 

Mine is a 92 one ton frame, I think it's 8" its a gasser 360. I went out with a tape measure at one point to check it out, but been a year or so, but I swear it was 8". It's a standard cab long bed frame I think, it has a company work box on it. I am basically only keeping the frame from that truck. It's an auto.

 

Just measure. Right behind the cab is easy.

Do note that a cab & chassis is not the right wheelbase for a pickup bed.

 

I have a flatbed on mine anyway, so not even worrying about pick up bed.

 

That's a killer of a paint scheme too...And I'm diggin' the front wheel covers......Ben

 

Brah- it's far from good and good from far LOL.

So the frame has been hacked into oblivion- it's a dually conversion tow truck originally. the frame was hacked off right after the spring shackles for the tow rig. also totally hacked the wiring harnes It was ran hard, put away wet about a jallion times. Then after they had wrung it out, they sold it to a local fisherman that put the flatbed on it. He hacked the wiring harnes some more, and did a bunch of shitty welding to haul a boat, And then the salt water started to do it's job along with the Hawaiian volcanic acid rain and humidity and fire ants (more electronic damage there).

The motor is in great shape except for the injector though. The trans won't go into OD, but I am not sure if I am staying auto or going manual at this point.

Along the way, I picked up a pretty decent (for Hawaii) 72 4x4 half ton with a built 360 in it- the rest of the body was toast, but oddly, cab not in bad shape. At body shop right now, costing less to fix than either of my 92 cabs would! Also- I have a free and clear title to the 72 anyway, so it will be titled and "safetied" here based on the 72, and I could avoid the possible commercial truck issue as well.

I am shooting to make it a "big red express" truck.