1 ton axel seals ???
1 ton axel seals ???
Looked in sticky , didn't see anything on rear axle or hub seale replacement. my right rear was leaking when i got the truck, had a shop fix it ,,,, now it's leaking again( it stinks )has oil on break shoes& drum. I think there is a inter-seal on the axle (tell me if i'm wrong). I'll do the job myself.
My D350 has a "slinger ring" strategically placed in there so that oil from a blown seal doesn't get to the drums and shoes, just runs down the sidewall of the tire. The main nut needs a large (~2 1/2") thin socket that's widely available. You may be able to work it off with large needle-nose pliers but it needs to be reinstalled to a certain torque before the little bit of shrapnel (nut locker) goes on. My Haynes manual has a 36 photo step-by-step, and I keep my digital camera handy to aid reassembly. Last time at it I replaced the seals, shoes, park brake cables and spring sets so the final pix were a thing of beauty! Good luck with it
,
,
My D350 has a "slinger ring" strategically placed in there so that oil from a blown seal doesn't get to the drums and shoes, just runs down the sidewall of the tire. The main nut needs a large (~2 1/2") thin socket that's widely available. You may be able to work it off with large needle-nose pliers but it needs to be reinstalled to a certain torque before the little bit of shrapnel (nut locker) goes on. My Haynes manual has a 36 photo step-by-step, and I keep my digital camera handy to aid reassembly. Last time at it I replaced the seals, shoes, park brake cables and spring sets so the final pix were a thing of beauty! Good luck with it
,
,
hey-Hey!!!,
Consider the condition of the seal journal. I had to install SpeediSleeves on mine; they were quite pitted and rough. Even a little groove worn by the seal lip can render them leakers( or so I have read ). The repair sleeves are not at all hard to install.
cheers,
Douglas
Consider the condition of the seal journal. I had to install SpeediSleeves on mine; they were quite pitted and rough. Even a little groove worn by the seal lip can render them leakers( or so I have read ). The repair sleeves are not at all hard to install.
cheers,
Douglas
Trending Topics
"Except 9,000lb axle" I think is the bigger, 3.00" seal found on the duallies. Some stores will have the specs of the Inside diameter right on their computer. Otherswise, just go with the more expensive ones!
Napa was over $30 for the seal! Found it for $12 at Advanced Auto
The "slinger ring" someone was mentioning was a Speedi Sleeve like Douglas2 is mentioning. It's a smooth surface for the seal to ride on. The slinger ring is what you press it on with. You can usually see a break on that ring, and peel it off if you had it on a crank snub or something. I broke mine trying to put it on since i think I got one too small. I heated it up to slide it on, but the thin metal does not hold the heat long as soon as it touches that cold axle stub. It shrunk and I couldn't get it off/on without damaging it.
I just set my seal in DEEPER than my original one was. This way, it rides on a new surface, not back in the old groove.
I took all kinds of pictures when I did it, but I have not got around to writting it up into a little "how to". I'll see if I got all the pictures or not.
Napa was over $30 for the seal! Found it for $12 at Advanced Auto
The "slinger ring" someone was mentioning was a Speedi Sleeve like Douglas2 is mentioning. It's a smooth surface for the seal to ride on. The slinger ring is what you press it on with. You can usually see a break on that ring, and peel it off if you had it on a crank snub or something. I broke mine trying to put it on since i think I got one too small. I heated it up to slide it on, but the thin metal does not hold the heat long as soon as it touches that cold axle stub. It shrunk and I couldn't get it off/on without damaging it.
I just set my seal in DEEPER than my original one was. This way, it rides on a new surface, not back in the old groove.
I took all kinds of pictures when I did it, but I have not got around to writting it up into a little "how to". I'll see if I got all the pictures or not.
I have done mine a couple times so far. The biggest problem I have, being somewhat small of stature, was slipping the hub and brake drum assembly back over the axle without damaging the seals. I have found it easiest for me to leave the wheels on the hub and set the wheels down in a cradle like a furniture dolly to support the weight. I carefully keep the hub centered by adjusting the axle up or down with a small bottle jack near the shock mount. Of course all this is done on a fairly level and smooth concrete driveway.
The bearing retainer (nut) is 2 and 9/16 inches. I am using a nyloc nut and a tab washer which get replaced every time. I reuse the axle to hub flange gaskets until they start to leak.
If your seals are leaking, it may just need a bearing adjustment. If they get too loose the wheel runs higher in relation to the axle and opens up the seal at the top.
The bearing retainer (nut) is 2 and 9/16 inches. I am using a nyloc nut and a tab washer which get replaced every time. I reuse the axle to hub flange gaskets until they start to leak.
If your seals are leaking, it may just need a bearing adjustment. If they get too loose the wheel runs higher in relation to the axle and opens up the seal at the top.
This is why i "LOVE" this place,everybody that's been there
& done that is so willing to help a fellow out. I know there aint on place ,near this place, like this place, soooo, this must be "THE" place. thank's everyone.
& done that is so willing to help a fellow out. I know there aint on place ,near this place, like this place, soooo, this must be "THE" place. thank's everyone.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
durhamd
2nd Gen. Dodge Ram - No Drivetrain
9
Jun 19, 2008 09:58 AM
JImbo1
2nd Gen. Dodge Ram - No Drivetrain
2
Apr 9, 2003 07:46 AM




