$3.40 per/gal I turned her back down
$3.40 per/gal I turned her back down
At $3.40 a gallon i'd rather have better milage than power, I turned my star wheel back 2.5 turns, my power screw back out 3.5 turns prolly .5 turns in from stock, smoke screw out 3 turns, how much do you all think it will effect my milage, i was down to 13mpg and then it jumped up to 16.5mpg before i turned it down, so now i hope it will be closer to 20mpg like when i bought it, what do you all think, IS IT WORTH IT????!!!!!!!!!!!!
I think the starwheel will have you blowing alot of fuel out as black smoke with the pin turned deep if you're not real careful with the skinny pedal.
Now how many can make that claim - real careful with the skinny pedal?
Now how many can make that claim - real careful with the skinny pedal?
I try to be careful with it and mostly am but as you all know you can't resist sittin at a light next to a powerjoke or a duramax, or any other time, that skinny (smoke) pedal can really cost you!!!
Turned up or down has nothing to do with mileage unless you are dumping raw fuel out the tailpipe.Turn it up properly and you will have all the power you ever need without the waste. My truck gets the same 20 mpg that it got when stock even with it turned up. The way you drive it decieds how much fuel mileage you get, not how much power is available. A diesel only burns as much fuel as is needed to do the job at hand.
well at the moment, i am about to loosen the pedal linkage, so then i cant reach full throttle, so if i want to all i have to do is pull a clip, pull the line and reinsert clip, easier than all the screw stuff. and maybe even remove afc line and insert 1/8 npt pipe plug, because i dont have the money or the time to install a valet yet.
- Back out the main fuel screw as many turns as you ran it in.
- Reset idle and linkage as needed.
- Run the IP timing as advanced as you care to go so as to take most advantage of the fuel being burned.
- Reset idle as needed.
- Set the smoke screw to the lowest setting (screw out) that gets your truck moving OK with no boost.
- Run the fuel cone around so that the pin is on the cone's shallowest setting.
- Adjust the star-wheel so that there's enough fuel to get the truck and load moving to your satisfaction (WOT).
- Consider backing out the main fuel screw more if you think you can get away with the minimal fueling.
- Go back through the above steps to tune in the new main fuel setting as needed.
- Get all that crap out of the back.
- Set the tire air pressure on all four as it should be considering your real working load.
- Make sure the air filter's clean.
- Make sure the transmission TV cable is adjusted to the factory spec as a minimum with the idea being to get the truck to shift when you're fixing to get out of the engines peak efficiency rpm range.
- Go to the car-wash and using high-pressure, remove as much of the heavy mud-n-crud from under the truck.
That kinda mess should help.
- Reset idle and linkage as needed.
- Run the IP timing as advanced as you care to go so as to take most advantage of the fuel being burned.
- Reset idle as needed.
- Set the smoke screw to the lowest setting (screw out) that gets your truck moving OK with no boost.
- Run the fuel cone around so that the pin is on the cone's shallowest setting.
- Adjust the star-wheel so that there's enough fuel to get the truck and load moving to your satisfaction (WOT).
- Consider backing out the main fuel screw more if you think you can get away with the minimal fueling.
- Go back through the above steps to tune in the new main fuel setting as needed.
- Get all that crap out of the back.
- Set the tire air pressure on all four as it should be considering your real working load.
- Make sure the air filter's clean.
- Make sure the transmission TV cable is adjusted to the factory spec as a minimum with the idea being to get the truck to shift when you're fixing to get out of the engines peak efficiency rpm range.
- Go to the car-wash and using high-pressure, remove as much of the heavy mud-n-crud from under the truck.
That kinda mess should help.
well i just played with mine and now i cant get over 12lbs of boost, i just screwed in the high idle and made a valet mode with two pipe plugs. still great throttle responce at idle, but now being a stupid teenager with a lead foot i cant go much over 75, and cant burn a lot of fuel just being stupid. now i can push the pedal to the floor and feel good because its not doing much
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I had to back my main-fuel-screw out 1-1/2 turns to get EGTs back in reasonable territory; I actually LOST a couple miles per gallon.
When this thing was so quick-triggered that it was about scary to drive, it got REAL GOOD mileage; BUT, with a trailer, the least little grade would have the pyro bouncing off of 1500 and me having to slow down to get things calmed down.
I really need a PowerStroke Inter-cooler.
When this thing was so quick-triggered that it was about scary to drive, it got REAL GOOD mileage; BUT, with a trailer, the least little grade would have the pyro bouncing off of 1500 and me having to slow down to get things calmed down.
I really need a PowerStroke Inter-cooler.
Fuel is $3.70 a gallon here. I will never turn my pump back down. The day I would do that is the day I would find PowerStrokes and D-Maxes blowing by me everywhere laughing at me! I will not let the Cummins name go down like that...
I couldn't resist i turned her back up, but put a new fuel filter on and ran trans. fluid in it to clean injectors, and shiftin into o/d at 35mph. I think with those alone my milage should atleast go up 3-4mpg, what do you all think.
True that, i drive like a grandma now to boost my milage, before i did not drive it hard but drove it harder than i have to. The more the powere the less you have to mash the throttle which inturn should help milage also. i am gonna burn some of this tank and then fill back up, then i will post some results, Was up to 21.6 mpg turned down drivin easy so we'll se what it does nowturned back up!!!







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