What is this thing?
Its gonna get toasty on you. The stock plate profile is pretty flat in the upper RPM band and that is where you get hot in a hurry (2600 RPM +). I get more jam with the 10 plate down low and not get as hot on the upper end. Not to say I don't get into the 1300°F range.
Typical newbie rant.
I wish someone had a link to a site that shows all these tech tips. Im new to the whole turbo Diesel scene and have no clue what your talking bout. sliding Plates, afc, boost controllers, all sound like simple mods, just wish I new where to even look for these parts.
Thanx.
Thanx.
http://www.tstproducts.com/pdffiles/INSRUCT98.pdf
http://www.tstproducts.com/index.asp...ROD&ProdID=119
http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_power/power_p7100.htm
here are some links with alot of info,before doing any power upgrades get some gauges in the truck...
http://www.tstproducts.com/index.asp...ROD&ProdID=119
http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_power/power_p7100.htm
here are some links with alot of info,before doing any power upgrades get some gauges in the truck...
how well can the stock clutch hold up to moving the plate, housing and starwheel. Is it likely you'll be looking for a new clutch after doing these mods or are aftermarket clutches needed only after serious BOMBing?
The stock clutch will hold whatever the stock plate can throw at it. Again its a pretty flat profile. The 10 plate will slip the clutch in the stock position if you are really abusive. Its the grunt you get around 2000 rpm that sets the clutch loose for me in 4th and 5th, but I have to really be hoggin on it. I am just a little more ginger when towing. Someone had said that the stocker is good for around 700 ft-lbs? Sorta makes sense as the 10 plate is rated 330/750 in the stock position.
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