I'm still in the process of getting familiar with my truck and modifications made by the PO. While installing my boost gauge, I noticed these tubes with some bolts in them. I've attached the pictures, they were taken standing beside the driver's side wheel well. Is this the waste gate? (bigger versions of these pics are in my gallery)

 

That line WAS the wastegate control line. Yikes that was a messy way to block it off.. Not to mention tough to hook it back up again. No clamps and running about 30 psi boost I assume? That might make a dent in the hood one day..LOL...

Before I bought my plate kit, I used some heater line pincher clamps I bought for $5 at the local parts store to pinch off the rubber hose. Then I just unclamped it when i put in the boost elbow that came with the kit..

J-eh

 

Thanks Lil Dog, I had a feeling that's what that was, actually the highest boost I've seen so far on hard acceleration uphill is 23 psi. Should I connect the control line back up?

 

pick up a ricer boost controller and put in that place. Look in my pics to see mine. Same spot and everything.

 

MNorby, do you happen to know where I can order a ricer boost controller? I did a search and could not find anything. Are they known by another name? Thanks.

 

you can get one here,http://www.sourceautomotive.biz/sa_dodge-turbo.htm

 

Judging by the boost you are seeing, unhooking the unit hasn't really gained you much.. Stock boost is around that level.

The wastegate on a stock engine doesn't kick in until 23-25 psi and that usually is in the 2600+ Rpm range. If you slide the plate fully forward and bump the AFC housing, you should see around 32-33 psi. Still not enough to require boost control (AKA wastegate).

If you grind your stock plate or put in an upgrade plate, you will need wastegate control to keep the boost under approx. 36 psi for the health of the turbo..

 

sounds like I need to take a look at the plate and AFC housing and see what exactly the PO did there too. The PO said he had slid the plate forward so I suppose it's odd that I can only get to 23 psi.

 

Alot of guys slide the plate, but forget about the AFC. With the stock AFC Spring setting (read starwheel) you don't create enough boost to get the AFC out of the way and never actually contact the plate, especially if it is not slid forward. You need to loosen the starwheel right off and bump the AFC forward.

You'll know if you got it right..

 

How far do you recomend sliding the AFC with the stock plate all the way forward?

 

All the way forward with the AFC, and loosen the starwheel as much as you can

Eric

 

Ok and lets see, loosening star wheel is turnning it towards the engine, is that right?

 

Yep; just take a flathead screwdriver, and turn the top of the starwheel towards the top of engine/passenger side of truck till it wont go any farther.

Eric

 

Correct, towards the engine. You will turn it lots of rotations. I turned mine until I couldn't reach is any longer, although there is still some tension on the spring. Ive heard to not turn it until the spring is loose though. I have my stock plate slid full foward, housing full foward, and spring as mentioned above, and I spike my boost gauge with 36lbs... as well as some other mods (thanks to Eric)

 

Do you think that will work ok at higher elevations, say 7-10 thousand ft.?