BigDiesel396

ER70S-6 wire actually produces a weld comparable to a 7018, and just like stick rods there are different classifications for solid, flux-cored and metal-cored wire as per metallurgical requirements for the weldment at hand so the statement that MIG welding will produce cracks easier than stick rods is a folk lore really since all of the variables of welder settings, wire, base metal, shielding gas and operator skill are not given. Also for future reference you need at least 85% argon in your mix to go into spray transfer. IMO as long as there was enough heat to melt the smallest part of the threads even that nut isnt going to back off from vibration, even if the tack broke apart from the nut, the tack will hold the nut there....Its really the owners preference to what he/she would want to do as alot of different ways would work

Box5

The nut usually just un-threads itself right? Are there instances of the nut being pushed over the threads and stripping them? Either way, securing the nut to the mainshaft is probably the best way, well not the best, but the best 'bandaid' way lol

TIMMY22

Box5, unless you start pushing 600+HP you will be fine.

You have some work ahead of you doing the 5 speed conversion. Let's put this one to rest and start talking about the Swap.

Clayten

Bare wire and c02 gas are not even close to a low high weld. My statement about migs was not that a mig weld is prone to cracking, but that a bare wire and c02 gas are prone to cracking. As the Boiler Inspections Branch will concur with my statement.I have used spray arc on several high rise buildings with c 25. But as you say, it is all in the skills of the operator. As well I highly doubt that the nut will back off. If there is to be any cracking or concerns of cracking, it would occur in the shaft.This would be the most obvious conclusion as this is where the energy is being transmitted.

Box5

Timmy, the master/slave cylinder arrive on thursday, and I'm renting the trans jack saturday morning until monday, so hopefully it'll be in by then. should be fun

TravisDj

What is the longest you know of that someone has driven with 5th gear in none working condition, such as the nut being off? Mine happened almost a week ago and I was well over 200 miles away from home now I am headed on a 300+ mile trip back there and only have my truck to drive. Any suggestions? I figure they will be that I need to get it fixed asap. I appreciate any help. I am in a huge bind.

BigDiesel396

I believe it doesnt hurt anything other than your mileage because now your only going to be able to go as high as 4th. I may be wrong but i do believe it doesnt effect anything other than not being able to use 5th.....

TravisDj

I was just thinking if that nut has come off the threads it is being thrown around on the main shaft and the gear could have backed all the off and is now doing damage. I don't know much so I wanted to check.

1-5-3-6-2-4

I personally had my 5th nut backed off for more than a month. lost the gear on a 3500km trip less than 1/4 of the way through. didn't fix it for about a month after. drove it every day. probably put 5000kms on it in 4th. no problems to date.

TravisDj

Okie dokie. Thanks for the input. Makes me feel better about my little drive.

Box5

After looking at the 5th gear, if it comes off, it would just kind of sit there in free motion, so it shouldn't do any damage.

Valv

Exactly !!!

When you'll take your NV4500 apart you'll find out why it won't hurt anything, it's just a smooth shaft and nut floats on oil, no friction anywhere.

Anyway, I drove mine for a 250miles trip back home, then for 2 weeks hauling, and frankly I was diving in 4th at 2500 rpm ( 65mph) and I had better MPG then in 5th gear

diesel don

If the nut has not fallen off yet can you get at it by taking off the P.T.O. covers to tighten or tack weld it before it drops off?

Box5

no, u have to drop the rear driveshaft and t-case. Then just take the rear housing off. Sounds in depth, but it goes really fast.